Alex,

I’ve got a West Highland White Terrier that has been diagnosed with an allergic skin problem. “Ralphie” has had some degree of itchiness, a patchy coat and reddened skin, on and off, for most of his adult life. He’s 5 years old now. At times, especially in the summer it drives him nuts. I have to admit it doesn’t help my state of mind a lot either. I’ve had him on courses of steroid pills whenever he gets bad, but I’m a bit worried about side effects on those. What else would help my little Ralphie?

Erica, Grey Lynn

A

Dear Erica and Ralphie,

This is a common and frustrating problem with many dogs in Auckland and is exceedingly prevalent in Westies (the breed not the location). It is possible to have intradermal skin tests performed by a specialist to identify specifically what allergens Ralph is reacting to, and thus the true cause of his affliction. Intradermal results can assist in managing allergic skin conditions but often specify a variety of common grasses or house dust mites which are impractical to avoid.

 

This leaves us reaching for a range of treatments. I totally support your caution over the use of steroids, they are a useful medication but you need to use the lowest dose that works and then only when totally necessary. Firstly, flea treatment must be maintained religiously. Any parasite irritation to Ralph will make his skin a million times worse, even when a flea allergy has been discounted as the primary cause.

 

Even if you’ve never seen a flea on Ralph, please treat him anyway. Antihistamines are a safe alternative to steroids that can help some dogs with their allergies. Unfortunately they are usually not as effective as in people and take up to 2 weeks to peak in effect. A good quality anti-inflammatory, antibacterial shampoo will help soothe the skin and minimize secondary infections that jump into damaged areas of his skin.

 

Ralph would definitely benefit from daily essential fatty acid supplementation, flax seed oil is a good source of this which can be added to his meals. His diet will also play a role, high quality, solely white meat derived food is usually helpful for inflamed skin. A variety of specialised low allergen dry food is available from your vets, designed specifically for these types of skin problems.

 

Don’t underestimate how much of a positive impact a tailored diet can have on skin allergies. As with any allergy where it is impossible to remove the offending allergen, you are left with having to manage a lifelong condition. This requires making use of a variety of products to control the skin condition, and a lot of patience. I hope some dietary modifications will be of help to Ralph, kind regards,

Dr Alex Melrose.

Hi there Alex. We live in Wanganui Ave, Herne Bay and are a bit concerned about the change in the timbre of our 13 year old Min Pin's (Miniature Doberman Pinscher) bark. He is otherwise well although has a couple of fatty lumps, and the beginnings of cloudy cataracts can be seen in certain light when you look into the centre of his pupils. Our biggest worry is that his bark seems to be higher pitched than it used to be. He is fed once daily on biscuits and meat and is on Vivitonin for brain function, fish oil capsules for his skin and joints and a multivitamin tablet. My partner and I are very concerned about him and anything you could tell us would be will be much appreciated. Sue B.

 

Hi Sue, I think this is something which definitely requires an examination at our clinic. Initially we can listen to his airways, feel glandular structures in his throat including lymph nodes, salivary glands and thyroid organs. We would check his temperature, and perform an open mouth examination of the upper throat and tonsils. Often throat problems do require deeper visualisation, necessitating a sedation or light anaesthetic which allows us to extend a light source/scope further down the throat to see the epiglottis, vocal folds and upper trachea. We also have throat radiography at our disposal. This could be an infectious problem affecting the larynx or tonsils requiring antibiotics or a lodged foreign body like a grass blade which can loop around the soft palate. Other congenitally linked causes would include a partially collapsing trachea (common in most toy breed dogs) or partial laryngeal paralysis both of which require visualisation by ourselves for diagnosis and are treatable with surgical tie-back. Let’s kick things off smartly with a thorough exam, kind regards, Dr Alex Melrose. VetCare Grey Lynn. 408 Great North Rd. 09 3613500. www.vetcare.net.nz. info@vetcare.net.nz .

Hi Alex. I just heard you on ZB talkback radio on Sunday. I really need your help, my partner has just moved in with his female cat (who is fixed). She is aged 10yrs plus, and I have a male ginger cat aged 3yrs (also fixed). We have to keep them apart as my ginger cat “Bobby” is very angry towards “Lady” and we are at our wits end not knowing what to do.  They are both lovely cats and we want to have both inside at the same time. Please, please help regards Betty.

 

Hi Betty, it’s a pretty common problem when trying to introduce two adult cats suddenly; things usually go better if one’s a kitten and therefore less threatening. Bobby is trying to cope with invasion of his territory so you can’t blame him for getting his little cat nose out of joint.

 

Let’s try and reduce the pressure on him. Firstly reduce the competition for limited resources. Supply two litter boxes in different locations if possible, separate their food bowls and ensure they’re kept apart while feeding. For a short period of time I would give them both tons of anything they want so they associate the new arrangement with positive experiences. This includes lots of treats, one on one attention and brushing or play, very important for some cats.

 

I would also recommend a thorough vet exam or both cats. Any conditions such as dental decay will be hard to pick by you and can contribute to raise levels of grumpiness in our pets. Many times we’ve seen a marked change for the better in animal behaviour after dental or skin treatments at our clinic.

 

I would use some pheromone plug-in spray like “Feliway” in the rooms they frequent the most to reduce tension and anxiety levels in Bobby and Lady. If after a period of several weeks we’ve still got war of the roses going on we could treat one or both cats with a course of Clomicalm tablets. These are a very effective, safe calming treatment from which pets can be weaned off once they have become used to their new environmental stressors. Kind regards to Bobby and Lady, Dr Alex Melrose.

Hi Alex. My wife and I are expecting our first baby girl, Isabella, and we had a some doubts regarding the best way to introduce her to our menagerie of cats and dogs.  What tips have you got for us, we have heard a few horror stories about cats smothering babies but don’t think our two Burmese or our Mastiff will cause any problems. Jason, Grey Lynn.

 

Hi Jason. Congratulations. It’s smart to make changes at home ahead of time. Real hassles are far and few between but there are some good policies to implement regardless. Before the baby arrives, expose your pet to the baby paraphernalia that you are rapidly gathering, such as strollers, swings, and noisy toys. Some dogs are especially anxious about things that roll. Reward your Mastiff with a favorite treat if it is able to sit next to these items calmly without reacting. Other pets are extremely sensitive to unfamiliar or loud sounds.

 

You can work on desensitizing to baby sounds by playing recordings available on CDs. Start by playing the sounds at a volume low enough that your pet doesn’t react. While the sounds are playing, use positive reinforcement techniques, such as giving treats, feeding meals, playing with toys, petting or brushing your pet. Over several sessions gradually increase the volume until your pet has no reaction to the sounds at normal volume.

 

Your pets should also get used to sleeping away from the bed before the baby arrives. Pets can be taught to sleep elsewhere by blocking their access to the bedroom with a baby gate (dogs) or by closing the bedroom door (cats). Move your cat’s food and water dishes and litter boxes to out-of-the-way locations and use covered litter boxes to limit children’s access. When your wife first comes home from the hospital don’t force an introduction, just let the pet be around the baby, dogs should have a leash attached.

 

Allow your pet to politely sniff at the baby, then draw its attention away with another activity such as playing with toys. If a dog seems overly fearful or anxious (flattened ears, tucked tail, yawning or lip licking) pick up the leash and walk the dog away from the baby, then reward the dog once calm and ignoring baby.

 

Pets should be fed in locations where it is easy for you to monitor what is in their bowls if children are nearby. Don’t leave food or treats down outside of meal times unless they are physically separated from the child. No dog should ever be left alone with a small child. Best Wishes, Dr Alex Melrose

Hi Alex. I have recently adopted an adult cat from the SPCA and think she is going blind. She only has one eye due to the other being amputated when she was a kitten. “Winks” adapted really well to our home but her eye is cloudy now and it seems like see can’t see at all. When she gets a fright I have noticed she runs into things a lot more. I am worried because I don’t want to let her outside because she might not find her way home or run onto the road and get hit. The SPCA said she will adapt to one eye but I’m not sure she will be able to see properly again with the changes in her “good” eye. If you have any ideas I would love to hear from you. Daniel.

 

Hi Daniel & “Winks”. I agree with the SPCA that cats do cope fantastically well with one eye. They can get a bit more easily frightened by things approaching on that side and will occasionally bump into things or misjudge a leap. Their quality of life is however excellent.

 

The recent deterioration in Winks’ vision is a big concern to me. Any time an eye shows clouding, whiteness, squinting, pain or discharge other than tears, you must rapidly seek veterinary attention, even if that happens to be “after-hours”.

 

With your cats history this is obviously even more crucial, not having a “back-up eye” so to speak. Once an eye has received trauma, especially into its cornea (the clear front surface), the eye can totally collapse and be irreparable within days if not hours. Bacteria will enter a corneal wound, often from a cat or stick scratch and can rapidly liquefy the tissue, literally eating through the outer layers of the eyeball until the eye ruptures, possibly to be lost forever.

 

Foreign bodies caught in the eye, such as splinters can also migrate through and cause collapse. At the clinic here we can use fluorescent dyes and ophthalmoscope lighting to assess the damage and ensuing risks. Treatment, depending on severity, can range from topical antibiotics and steroids dropped onto the eye surface, to drugs taken orally to reduce pressure in the globe, right through to surgical patching of the eyeball with  a flap of nearby tissue.

 

Never delay examination and treatment of eye conditions, seek immediate veterinary help.

Dear Dr Alex Melrose.

I am writing to you for advice with my cat “Iggy”. He has had (3 times now) bleeding from his bottom. He roams the neighbourhood a lot but gets a big variety of cat biscuits to eat, and has lots of water available here at home. He is de-sexed but is always fighting with the very evil grey and white cat that attacks him from next door, but I don’t think Iggy is the aggressive one. Could this neighbour’s cat be part of the problem? Francine, Masterton.

 

Hi Francine thanks for your letter. Although innocent Iggy is being attacked by the evil one, from the number of times I’ve heard similar stories I’m guessing it still does “take two to tango” and that Iggy may have to take some responsibility for his encounters as he roams the neighbourhood, crossing other cats territories. However, it seems pretty unlikely that he has had 3 consecutive haemorrhaging bite wounds in exactly the same spot on his derriere, so ol’ Grey and White is probably not the cause.

 

I am concerned that the bleeding is more likely to be coming from his bowel. Minor causes of this can include untreated intestinal worms, benign polyp type growths, and passing small pieces of bone or poorly digestible scraps, plants or carrion (that Iggy may have found on his travels). At the other end of the scale serious viral and bacterial enteritis pathogens such as salmonella, campylobacter or giardia could be involved or even more sinister GIT growths or organ diseases.

 

Your vet will be able to determine what part of the bowel the blood is coming from and narrow down the potential causes for Iggy’s ongoing bleeding potentially by using an array of blood and faecal tests. Please take Iggy in for assessment and I think you’ll find the so called evil cat next door will be exonerated. Kind regards, Dr Alex Melrose.

Dear Alex, thank you. I just received your vaccination reminder letters for my two Westies. Much appreciate the reminder as I’m always forgetting when they are due again each year. You mentioned about your clinic offering a package where you also blood screen them both to check out their internal health. It sounds like it might be a good plan as they are getting on for ten years now. Can you please explain what benefits it holds for my boys, then I’ll make up my mind and bring them down the road to you next week. Regards, Trish.

 

Hi Trish. Our blood lab helps us to do everything possible to ensure the health and safety of your pets. Many diseases can go unnoticed externally in their early stages. With both of your boys entering their senior years there is an increasing chance of some internal organ deficiencies. Along with the ability to better diagnose and treat individual cases, our in-house blood lab is used extensively prior to surgery.

 

Many commonly used anesthetic agents are metabolized by the liver and kidneys. Detecting conditions in these organs may show the need to change or alter the anaesthetic agent used on the day, and helps us reduce the risk of any complications. Unusally high WBC (white blood cell) numbers show viral or bacterial infection. If Lab results detect abnormalities like this it may even be necessary to postpone a procedure, to first treat, control or stabilize a condition.  If these diseases or weaknesses go undetected they may complicate recovery from an anaesthetic, and cause problems for your pet’s future health.

 

Even “normal” results from the blood tests will provide a baseline, telling us what is normal for your individual pet. As your pets return to us for care later in life, we will be better able to differentiate between the normal and abnormal and may identify a disease in the initial stage rather than when more advanced. Trish, the more we know, the more we can support you in providing your Westies with a long happy life.  See you up here with them soon.

Hi there Alex. I have a very old budgie that has in the last few months suddenly got very fat. I don’t know if he’s developing a growth, or if his weight has just shot up. How can I tell? I looked underneath, under its feathers and it seems swollen and white with many veins. He still seems to be acting ok, but I don’t like his chances of getting air born! I was wondering what I should do?

Thanks Aaron & Biggles.

 

Hi Aaron, great question. Budgies are very prone to developing Lipomas. These are benign, fatty tissue neoplasms. Other species get them frequently, but budgies and cockatiels top the list. The birds are usually older and on a high fat diet. Sunflower seeds are very high in vegetable fats and are a common instigator, being so popular with birds because of their flavour.

 

Think of them like ice-cream for ourselves; only feed them sunflower as a treat. In birds the masses are rounded, vein laden and lie just under a very thinly stretched skin, often under the abdomen. Although Lipomas are benign and wont attack other body systems, they can grow as large and heavy as to cause great suffering.

 

I’ve had birds that would fall off their perch all day long with the shear weight of the growth, let alone be unable to fly. Lipomas also place great physical pressure on internal organs, blood flow and respiration. Fortunately, as with cats and dogs, they are readily removable. We can anaesthetize Biggles with a little isofluorane gas and “shell” the Lipoma out through a very small incision, providing a massively improved quality of life for the little guy.

 

See you in the surgery soon, regards Dr Alex Melrose.

Hi Alex, Yesterday I was talking to my neighbour about the nasty death of her cat “Rufus”, a big red Persian. A sad tale unfolded of prolonged illness that she informed me was finally diagnosed as Cat AIDS. Has she got this right, is there such a thing and could my moggie “Fat Louis” be in danger from catching it off Rufus during their many years of socialising? If so what can I do to make sure he doesn’t suffer the same fate? Please help “Fat Louis” and his concerned dad, cheers Adam.

 

Hi Adam, Your neighbour is correct, feline AIDS is real and widespread, in central Auckland as many as 8% of all cats have the virus. It is a retrovirus, related to human HIV although fortunately not transferable to people. FIV is the most common cause of death by infectious disease in cats in New Zealand.

 

It does so by interfering with the host’s immune system until that cat is too weak to fight off disease, or other infections. FIV lives in an infected cat’s blood for life. The virus is present in large amounts in saliva and is most commonly spread between cats through biting during fights. Some infected cats will show no symptoms for many years. If symptoms do develop they can be as diverse as severe mouth infections, swollen lymph nodes and recurrent fevers.

 

Outdoor cats and cats that fight a lot (often males) are most at risk of this horrible disease. If Fat Louis is as chilled as his name suggests and didn’t get into fights with Rufus and other neighbouring cats then the chance of him having this disease is small. A simple blood test can be performed at your vet to check for FIV. Keeping Louis inside more, especially at night, neutering all cats at a young age, isolating any really aggressive individuals, and blood testing new arrivals will all help to reduce risk.

 

A new vaccine is available here now which is approximately 75% effective against the sub-types of the FIV virus that occur in N.Z., substantially reducing the chance of a cat ever becoming infected. Louis would need three initial shots and then a yearly booster. Adam, definitely get the blood test done for peace of mind and I’m sure Fat Louis will be able to continue on his long and peaceful life. Kind regards, Dr Alex Melrose.

Hi Alex, I am hoping you can help me. A little over 2 weeks ago my children were staying with their father. While they were there they had 2 kittens that started hanging around and appeared to have been abandoned by their owner. We have since taken them into care and they seem to be doing well accept they have had weepy eyes with a yellow discharge.

 

I have being trying to keep the eye area clean with water and wiping it with a clean cloth. This morning I awoke to my adult cat with weepy eyes and sneezing! I am concerned that she might have cat flu or a cold. Xena has only recently had her yearly injections but I guess that does not safeguard her 100%.I am not sure if these things can clear up on their own or not? Can you please tell me what this possibly could be and how I could fix it? Ruth.

 

Hi Ruth, good on you for rescuing these little kittens. As you suspect they have unfortunately transmitted a respiratory disease to your previously healthy adult cat. The recent vaccinations that she has received will still be of great benefit.

 

Kitten respiratory infections usually involve multiple different bacteria and viruses. Xena will be much better off, her antibodies being all primed up ready to fight off the worst threats. Namely cat Calici, and Herpes viruses. These pathogens cause severe damage to sinuses, corneas and tonsilar tissues and can imbed themselves to break out at times of stress for the remainder of a cat’s life.

 

There are a host of other nasty invaders that get involved in attacking feline respiratory systems and are often shed by kittens, being especially vulnerable while their immune systems are not fully developed. Definitely bring Xena and the little kittens in for us to assess and assist. The good news is that because she is full vaccinated she is likely to suffer only mild cold-like symptoms for a brief period.

Dear Alex

I am the owner of a six year old, male Oriental cat.  We are having real problems with him spraying around the house.  We have been living here eighteen months and this started two months ago.  There have recently been other cats coming inside and we have fixed this problem by turning his cat door into a magnetic one.  The house stinks and we are loosing our patience with him now.  Help!  What do you suggest we do?  We are getting desperate.

Crystal. Parnell.

 

Dear Crystal,

The problem would have initially started with his territory being invaded by strangers.

He is marking his territory by spraying, advising them and reassuring himself, “this is my place”.   That was a great move installing the magnetic cat door. Although you have stopped the initial trigger of the problem he is unfortunately now into a bad habit.

 

A urinary infection needs to be ruled out in these situations. This can be done by your veterinarian. The first thing you shouldn’t do is use any ammonia based cleaning products to clean the urine up.  This will only encourage him to spray more in the same spot as cat urine itself contains ammonia.  Vinegar and water works well and there are also a number of commercially prepared, odourless cleaning products specifically for this.  The next step is to trick him into thinking he’s already marked your home with his scent.  There is a product called Feliway available, which is a synthetic cat calming pheromone.  This can be dispensed using a spray bottle or a plug in room atomizer (which will go undetected by the human nose).

 

  It is 95% effective at reducing marking behaviour. Finally your vet has the option to prescribe a course of anti anxiety medication. A combination of these things will normally do the trick in the most difficult cases. Hopefully we will have your house smelling like roses once again, and everyone, human and feline, will be a lot happier.

Dear Alex, My cat Samantha keeps getting very restless and weeing against my furniture. She has been spayed but is she on heat anyway? Cindy.

 

Dear Cindy and Samantha, First let’s deal with the possibility of Samantha being on heat. Naturally, in a spayed cat this is very rare. Occasionally cats can have tiny pieces of an ovary accidentally left behind during their ovariohysterectomy.

 

Even less common are recorded instances of cats with ectopic ovarian tissue, tags of ovary and its associated eggs located away from their normal position at the end of the uterine horn. Both of these situations are highly unlikely and Samantha is more likely to just be displaying excited or anxious behaviour. As you have correctly implied it is unusual for cats, especially for females, to spray after they have been neutered. However, approximately 5% of them will still do it at certain times.

 

They are spraying small volumes of urine, primarily to mark their territory, usually against vertical surfaces or edges. Anxiety is usually the trigger for cats to start to spray. Samantha is probably attempting to ward other cats away from her territory and to reassure herself. The pheremones carried in her urine have a powerful calming effect on her. Essentially she is trying to tell herself that everything is o.k.

 

Of course in her mind it may not be and to stop any cat spraying we need to identify the stressor, such as a neighbouring cat coming in through a cat door. Then we can take steps like getting a magnetic cat door installed to allow only Samantha to pass in and out.

 

Veterinary pheremonal sprays and plug in diffusers are helpful in treating these problems. Occasionally we will even use anti anxiety tablets to temporarily reduce stress levels and help break bad habits. Let’s work on reducing Samantha’s stress levels, Dr Alex Melrose.

Kia Ora Alex, My wee cat is thoroughly enjoying the Cicada season at present. However I do wonder sometimes if too many Cicadas can cause harm. I have seen her, on a couple of occasions, devour four in the space of about 5 minutes flat. I sometimes try to rescue them and tell her I think she’s had enough for one day. Am I wasting my time here? Thanks, Kate, Eden Terrace.

 

Kia Ora Kate, Your wee cat is not alone, my nurse’s cats also chomp through a fair tonnage of these bugs. The news is all good, in 13 years of veterinary experience I have never had to surgically remove 1 Cicada from a cat’s stomach, and they are a good source of fibre and protein, yummy.

 

I’ve pulled out needles and thread, fish hooks and squash balls, and stomach pumped a few Labradors that have been responsible for eating TV remotes, cameras and 2kg of half frozen sausages, but never has an insect required surgical extraction. These hunting cats will however often develop varying degrees of gastritis, as can similarly occur when they eat mice and birds.

 

Cats with gastritis show signs of inappetance, mild abdominal pain, lots of intestinal gas and can be quite inactive. Depending on what they have devoured these signs may last for 1 to 2 days. Usually this will resolve by itself and reoccur occasionally when they pig out on too many prey. If the lethargy and other signs persist then see your veterinarian to check for infection or other unrelated health conditions.

 

Happy hunting, Dr Alex Melrose.

Hi Alex

We have 3 1/2 year old wire haired fox terrier and just last weekend new neighbours moved in and they have a rabbit.  Well needless to say Holly has found the rabbit very quickly and dug under the fence to "visit" the rabbit a few days after they moved in - not the best way to meet new neighbours. 

 

Of course this is very tempting for Holly and normally she is free to roam in and out of the house to her hearts desire. The back garden is fully fenced, but she can of course dig under.  At present every time she goes outside one of us goes with her to make sure she does not try and get under the fence again.  She immediately goes to the fence and peers through sniffing the air.  Any suggestions as to how we can help Holly overcome what is in her genes - to chase rabbits!  It seems unfair that we may have to look at letting her go if we cannot help her to not see the rabbits as a meal.

Thanks

G & A & Holly.

 

Hi guys. You’ve give me a tough one here. Normally we would discuss retraining and de-sensitise her to be calm around the rabbit with a combination of positive and negative reinforcement and non confrontational punishment. I think that would work well in a very young puppy, and I’ve certainly seen households where the rabbit, dog and cats all live happily together, often with the rabbit totally dominant, ramming the others when it doesn’t get its own way.

 

However I don’t like our chances now Holly is an adult, and being a Foxie, is built to dig and hunt small mammals. In some cases you can booby trap an area of ground next to the fence with partially dirt covered water balloons, upside down mouse traps or motion triggered water sprinklers. Again, I’ve got a feeling Holly will not be deterred by these. So let’s turn our attention to containment.

 

People have successfully fixed these scenarios before by using electric perimeters. A simple low voltage wire can be run along the bottom of that fence line. Even better is a perimeter wire that triggers a fitted shock collar when she approaches the boundary. These work well and can’t shock anyone else.

 

Rather than getting shocked all the time dogs usually learn very quickly to not approach that area. Although I’m hesitant to use shock collars, there are situations where they are necessary, effective and better than the alternative of “letting her go”.

Death by chocolate

Like everyone else at Easter time my thoughts turn to lessons contained in the Bible ….. Well to be fair, the thoughts go mainly to memories of chocolates devoured over the years as a child.

 

To my amazement I have discovered there is not one single recorded medical case of people dying from chocolate. I must have come close a couple of times. There are unfortunately regular deaths of Dogs from Chocolate Toxicity. Chocolate contains Theobromine, a Methylxanthine compound which in large amounts can cause increased heart rates, cardiac arrhythmias, arrest and death.

 

White chocolate contains the least Theobromine, sweet chocolate a moderate amount and dark or cooking chocolate contains the most. The LD50 or dose at which 50% of dogs could die is around 20g of dark chocolate per kg. Dogs are more sensitive to the effects of this compound; their livers metabolize it slowly, converting it to other toxins and take a long time to clear from the body.

 

Obviously with the poisoning effect being weight related it’s the Toy Breed dogs that are most at risk. A 3 kg Chihuahua would only require one whole small 60g bar of dark chocolate to be at serious risk of collapse. A 40kg Labrador could probably still give 2 king size blocks a nudge, to get into difficulties, seemingly lacking the feedback switch which shuts off their ravenous appetite.

 

Humans are thought to be around 4 times less sensitive to its effects. This combined with much greater body weights, a reasonable appetite feedback loop and an added tolerance in coffee drinkers explains the lack of human deaths. I’d have to eat about 10kg of baking chocolate, even the thought of which is causing me stomach pains.

 

Any dog which has eaten a large amount of chocolate relative to its body weight needs immediate veterinary care. With so much chocolate hidden around our homes this weekend lets be extra careful to not let the pooches get their hungry little paws on it. Easter Eggs are truly a hidden danger to our canine friends.

Hi Virginia, this “weepy eye” syndrome is a really common problem with young cats. Cats have a number of viral organisms which can get into the conjunctival tissue around their eyes at a young age, often while still with their queen.

 

The main culprits are Herpesvirus, Calicivirus and Chlamydia. The severity and frequency of these infections usually diminishes as the cat gets older and its immune system stronger. In your case it sounds like just excessive tears are present, but there can be significant pus and mucus from badly infected eyes.

 

The tissue around the eyeball (conjunctiva) is usually more red and swollen and the third eyelid (that cats have and we don’t) may be sliding across from its normal position at the inner corner of the eye. The eyeball itself can become cloudy and painful and the cat will often squint.

 

Typically bouts of infection are intermittent, much like cold-sores in people, with outbreaks triggered by episodes of stress or contact with irritants like dust, pollens and sunlight. Virginia, you mention that your young cat has been tested for these “cat flu” organisms and found clear.

 

I would need to know more about the testing to be confident about that. These tests are notoriously difficult, equivocal and expensive. Just this month a combined PCR test for all three of these nasties has become available in N.Z. which has improved accuracy and costs about $200.

 

While its great to know for sure what infection your cat has, it doesn’t often alter the treatment much as all the topical antiviral drugs available here in N.Z. are pretty ineffective. Cats may need antibiotics when the discharge becomes yellow or green or if they are lethargic and inappetant.

 

Non steroidal anti-inflammatories can be useful to combat pain, swelling and clouding and in severe cases surgery can be required to repair ulcers to the cornea where these infections have eaten away the surface of the eye. For mild cases such as yours I would stick with some natural treatments and use steam decongestants to clear the nasal passages if these get blocked.

 

This is really important as when cats loose their sense of smell their appetite plummets, dehydration can occur and loss of ability to fight off these viruses follows.  I would use some artificial tear drops to lubricate and flush the eye, and try Lysine from your health-food shop to boost the cat’s antiviral fighting ability.

Dear Alex,

We have an interesting case for you that I hope you can help with.  We’ve got a much loved 10 year old Dalmatian, Samson. He has been diagnosed with separation anxiety a few years ago, which we’ve so far managed to live with.

Over the last few days he is seeing or feeling imaginary things on the bed where he sleeps and will now freak out over all kinds of things that don’t seem to be there. Yesterday he walked safely past our coffee table and then turned and snapped at it like it had attacked him or something and got stressed out. Wondering if you have any ideas? I thought he may be starting to lose his sight?  He doesn’t seem disorientated and isn’t on any medication at all.

Jody, Mt Eden.

 

Hi Jody. Good thought with the failing eyesight but if he was that easily fooled by shapes around him (which does happen) he would be bumping into things left, right and centre even when just walking down the hallway.

Sometimes pain will cause a sudden change of behaviour with aggression as you have described but again their typically would be other signs and clues to this such as changes in stance or reluctance to jump up. When pain is located in the spine it is especially hard for animals to localise and they can behave as though being attacked by an invisible foe. A careful examination at our clinic will confirm, or rule this out for sure.

Certainly the separation anxiety is possibly involved and his natural high levels of adrenalin and proclivity to easily becoming stressed may be a factor in his condition, but not a recognised cause.

There are some very interesting seizure type conditions that cause dogs to see things that aren’t there, typically “imaginary flies”. The other possibility on our list for Samson is a vascular incident triggering these new behaviours, a type of stroke.

As you can see Jody, we’ve got a lot of diagnosing to do when we examine him but I’m sure whatever becomes apparent we will be able to help you both.

Kind regards, Dr Alex Melrose. BVSc, MRCVS. VetCare Grey Lynn. 09 3613500. 408 Great North Rd. www.vetcare.net.nz info@vetcare.net.nz .

Dental Advice

Dental disease is a common health problem in

dogs and cats. It can lead to bad breath; swollen, bleeding gums;

loose teeth; salivation; mouth rubbing; difficulty eating; and even

more severe problems.

 

In severe cases, periodontal disease may be associated

with the spread of infection to other parts of the body, including the heart

and kidneys.You can avoid these problems by regularly visiting your

veterinarian for professional exams and cleanings and

by caring for your pet’s teeth at home.

 

At your pet’s dental appointment, your vet

will first examine its mouth and teeth for problems

such as plaque, calculus, or gingivitis; broken or missing

teeth; discolored teeth; masses; or periodontal

disease. If necessary our veterinarian can then schedule to anesthetize

your pet to examine its mouth more thoroughly

and to clean its teeth.

 

The in-depth exam may reveal

that your pet needs treatment such as tooth extraction

or special therapy for advanced gum disease. Dental

X-rays may also be needed to find problems that can’t

be seen by visual examination.

 

Finally, after examining

and cleaning your pet’s teeth, your veterinarian will

polish them and may apply fluoride.

 

Brushing your pet’s teeth can go a long way toward

preventing dental disease. Some pets resist brushing,

but most eventually accept it, especially if you start a

brushing routine when your pet is young. Aim at brushing

your pet’s teeth at least twice a week.

 

Choose a pet toothpaste your pet likes. Several brands and flavors

 Such as Malt or Chicken are available to help coax your pet into a

brushing regimen. Place a small amount of flavored

pet toothpaste on your finger, and offer it to your pet daily for several

days as a treat. This will condition your pet to view

brushing as fun and rewarding.

 

Once your pet accepts

toothpaste use your index finger to simulate

the brushing motion of a toothbrush, while praising the

pet.

 

After a week introduce a soft-bristled

pet toothbrush. Make small circular strokes at the gum line.

Start at the back teeth and work forward and around to

the other side, concentrate on the outside surface of the teeth.

 

Toys, treats, rawhide chews, and specially formulated

foods are available to help keep your pet’s teeth clean.

Use these in addition to brushing your pet’s teeth.

 

Most of these toys and foods have a mild abrasive action

to help wipe away the thin layer of protein that

builds up on teeth. Others are treated with enzymes to

help reduce bacteria.

 

When buying treats or

foods, look for the Veterinary Oral Health Council

(VOHC) seal of approval. www.vohc.org.

Follow-up exams are important to monitor home

care and to detect signs of dental disease.

 

Keep in mind that if

home dental care is not provided, then professional

cleanings may be needed more often. And if your pet is

having difficulty accepting home care, contact your veterinarian

so you can work together to find an agreeable

solution.

 

Remember, by taking care of your pet’s teeth

and gums, you’re helping care for its overall health. ■

Q. Hi Doc. I’ve recently got a new puppy, a huntaway cross. I’ve named her “Star”. She is 4 months old, mad as a meat axe and has all four of those little dangly toes still present on the inside of her paws.

 

I’ve been told by a “dog expert” that they have to all come off, or I’ll risk her continually catching them against things and ripping them. This would be pretty painful I imagine, especially at the speeds she travels at. I want to do the right thing by her but is this really necessary and what would be involved? Mike. Kingsland.

 

A. Hi Mike, in this case those dangly things are called “Dew Claws”. Sometimes they need to be surgically removed, but often they can safely be left in place. The deciding factor is really how much they protrude out to the side of the limb and therefore how likely they are to get caught on objects rushing by.

 

Star’s front dew claws, as with most dogs, are likely to be well attached and to sit pretty flush against her lower limbs. The front dew claws are therefore usually left intact. Conversely most hind limb dew claws stick out a lot more and are routinely removed.

 

This is especially noticeable if the claw is only attached by a narrow band of skin and happily flops around all over the place. Star would need to have a general anaesthetic to remove these vestigial digits. Skin-only claws can be removed very rapidly and Star would speedily recover to full speed.

 

Some hind dew claws are attached much more securely by a well formed bony digit complete with its own extensive blood and nerve supply. In the case of these developed bony dew claws the surgery is obviously a lot more involved. This is similar to performing a total toe amputation.

 

Star would be bandaged post operatively and have pain killers and anti inflammatory treatment to go home with for an enforced week of rest. Most people choose to get this dew claw surgery done at the same time as their dog is speyed or castrated. This minimizes costs and the number of anaesthetics.

 

Any retained deciduous teeth are usually pulled and micro chipping can be performed at the same time. Kind regards, Dr Alex Melrose. VetCare Grey Lynn.

Hi Doc. I’ve got an old girl Jemma, who is struggling a bit these days and I’d like to know if you can help me. She has just turned ten years old and is a super little Jack Russell. The last few weeks she has been drinking tons of water, eating as much as ever but getting more and more skinny. I’ve been told it’s probably diabetes and I’m too worried to bring her in incase you tell me that nothing can be done. Simon. Sandringham.

 

Simon, the diagnosis of Diabetes is quite possible from the signs you describe. There are other things on our list of possible causes but lets focus on that one for now. Diabetic animals often present just as you have described, and can also be getting weaker, have a thinning coat and urinary infections.

 

Just as in us, diabetes is treatable in pets. The condition is caused by multiple factors such as genetics, previous infection or disease, some medications, obesity, immune disorders, pancreatitis, and even female hormone fluctuations. These do damage to “Beta” cell function in the pancreas which can then no longer produce insulin.

 

Low blood insulin leaves the pet unable to transport glucose into its tissue’s cells, glucose builds up to very high levels in its blood and the problems begin. Occasionally this state can be transient, more commonly in cats. Often the condition worsens over 6 months as more beta cells die and treatments need to be increased to match this progression.

 

The dogs most at risk are middle aged females, often Terriers, Schnauzers, Bichons, and Samoyed. Jemma obviously fits into these risk groups. As with humans obesity is a big risk factor. When you bring Jemma in we can perform some simple blood and urine tests to detect elevated levels of glucose.

 

Insulin injections, weight control, regular exercise, treatment of any other contributing conditions and a low GI diet are all part of the treatment. Meals are timed with the injections which can be once or twice daily with tiny little non-painful needles.

 

“Nibbler” cats are usually allowed to keep grazing on small meals all day. Glucose curve tests are then performed periodically to adjust the insulin dose to the individual and patients when stable are monitored easily t home.

 

Contrary to your fears if indeed Jemma has this condition we can do a huge amount to help her. If left untreated she would become very ill within several weeks.

Hi Alex,  

I just wanted to drop you a quick email to ask about my beautiful Siamese boy, Carlos. He constantly demands food with a typically deafening Siamese howl. I can handle this as I’ve had 12 years of practice with him and I work a few extra jobs to put food in his mouth. However, as I was laying out his smorgasbord the other day I started wondering whether he needs some special diet now he is getting longer in the tooth, and whether supermarket food can do the job?

Sarah, (servant to my cat).

 

Dear Sarah and Carlos,

I am full of respect for Carlos despite having never met him. He has trained you well. It’s a great point you’ve raised about needing to tailor the diet you provide for Carlos to meet his changing nutritional requirements as he ages. Animals need to be fed differently at each “Life Stage”.

 

As a kitten he needed more protein and calcium for muscle and bone growth. Next, as an adult cat Carlos still required a relatively high protein level, all cats do compared to humans or dogs. As cats enter the senior stages of their lives it is of great benefit to reduce dietary protein intake while maintaining protein quality. As you are probably aware it is common for older cats to suffer kidney disease.

 

One of the contributing factors to this is the high workload of the kidneys having to clear protein waste products. By altering Carlos’ diet we can reduce the protein load on the kidneys and hopefully minimize the chances of him developing kidney failure. While some supermarket brands are o.k., most suffer from variable quality and the ingredients used can change from batch to batch.

 

All premium pet food brands available from Vet Clinics and good Pet Stores offer life stage diets for both cats and dogs. Eukanuba, Pro Plan, Royal Canin and Hills all produce very high quality “Senior” cat food that will be ideal for Carlos and should stifle his howling demands, at least for a few minuits.

 

I hope you enjoy all the food Carlos,

Dr Alex Melrose.

Hi Doc,

I need some help with my beautiful German shepherd, Samson. He’s very affectionate with us, but lately I haven’t been too keen on him slobbering all over my face. He’s developed an unsavoury taste for droppings! Initially any cat or dog doo would do, now he’s extended the buffet to include duck poo down at western springs.

 

The thought and smell of all this getting dribbled onto my face revolts me. Should I be worried about catching any bugs off him? What can I do to stop this behavior and return to fun filled frolics with Samson? A friend of mine suggested his diet may be lacking something. What would you suggest?  Sarah, Grey Lynn.

 

Dear Sarah (and Samson),

Samson is not lacking anything in his diet, he just likes the flavour and aroma, obviously an acquired taste that he has taken to new levels…shocking but true! You should be afraid for your own health, afraid but not terrified. Zoonotic transmission of disease from animals to people isn’t that common but you are at risk.

 

Bacteria like Salmonella and Campylobacter are possible (especially from ducks), as are other gastrointestinal nasties such as Giardia. Intestinal worms can also migrate through various organs of the human body causing serious disease. Toxoplasmosis is spread in kitten faeces and is very dangerous to pregnant women.

 

Apart from physical health threats Samson will develop a rejection complex from nobody wanting his drool on them anymore. He may go into his shell.

 

You can treat this in several ways. Firstly if you prevent access to any droppings for several weeks an animal will often kick the habit. Obviously this requires instant removal around home and keeping Samson on a lead when out and about.

 

Option two is booby trapping the poo! Leave the droppings laid out tantalizingly for the big fellow but top them with cayenne pepper, citronella spray, or “stop chew” spray.

 

Usually 2 or 3 of these assaults to his palate and he will alter his dining preferences. The final option is aversion therapy, where a water pistol spray in the face, or a fright from a remote collar can be used to good effect to make the poo less appealing. Good luck with Samson and his breath.

 

P.s. You may wish to worm yourself every now and again

Regards, Dr Alex Melrose.

Dear Alex,

I need your help please. I’m blessed with three fun loving Burmese cats ranging in age from 2 to 5 years. They are all really active and wander across my neighbours properties searching for affection when ever I’m not home (apparently common for this breed).

 

Fortunately they are quite popular visitors, and obviously look out for one another, so they all usually get home safely. The problem is a few days ago one of my neighbours sprayed parts of his back yard with something like Roundup and simultaneously my youngest cat, Samson has become quiet and is just lazing around home all day. What should I do for him, and should I be worried about the other two, Delilah and Mack, who currently seem fine?

Regards, worried cat lover. Dianna.

 

Hi Dianna,

I think you are right to be slightly worried. These oriental breeds like your adventurous Burmese tend to have large territories. It’s pretty common for them to be chewing on bits of grass and plants along their travels and I’ve seen many cases of toxicities relating from these situations here at my clinic in Grey Lynn.

 

Firstly I would confine all three cats indoors for a few days until there has been sufficient rain to wash the herbicide off at your neighbours place. Samson definitely needs to be checked by your vet right away and I’d take the other two along at the same time.

 

Common signs of toxicity can include salivation, in-coordination, lethargy, vomiting and diarrhea, panting and increased thirst. Localised ulceration to the tongue and mouth can also occur and needs to be treated quickly to prevent infection. If your vet confirms a case of poisoning Samson would require an i.v. drip to combat dehydration and help eliminate toxins from his body.

 

Blood samples are valuable to assess any possible organ damage, and depending on the offending poison Samson my also receive a specific antidote. Once he is recovering repeat blood tests several days to weeks later can be used to identify any residual liver or kidney problems.

 

A course of Milk Thistle supplements can assist liver function and cell regeneration. Best wishes for Samson’s speedy recovery, Dr Alex Melrose.

Hi Alex, Merlyne here. I just wanted some advice about Matai, my giant Malamute. He has got his summer eczema back. I think we have to live with the fact that he will need medication for that every summer.

 

It reared its head as soon as the season changed. I’ve also noticed that he has a round soft lump, under the skin more towards the centre of his belly and I would like it checked out. It’s been unchanged for a few months, how would you know if it’s harmless or it’s something malignant? Just wondering what tests will be done? He’s 8 years old now and is sleeping more. If you could just let me know what to expect I would be very grateful. Merlyne.

 

Hi Merlyne, with Matai’s age and reduced energy levels, and because of his necessary (often the case with Malamutes) long-term drug treatment we will first blood test him. This will check organ function, drug elimination abilities, white and red blood cells, and it also never hurts to check thyroid levels in these guys. Malamutes are very prone to Hypothyroidism which causes long term skin problems, among other things.

 

A small mass like that is most likely to be benign, possibly a lipoma (fat growth) but all lumps should be tested. We will take a fine needle aspirate i.e. a needle into the mass and then onto a slide for the lab to test for unusual cell types. This is pretty painless (honestly), quick and inexpensive and often gives clear results. Matai’s seasonal dermatitis will be exacerbated by his very thick coat trapping heat and bacteria.

 

We are likely to reach for antibiotics, and possibly anti-inflammatory or antihistamine therapies for this.  Atopica, an immune modulator is also among our treatment options. We’ll keep up his zinc supplementation (usually very deficient in this breed) and 1 tablespoon of flax seed or fish oils daily to reduce skin and joint inflammation. Twice weekly medicated shampooing, at least of the affected area acts to reduce bacteria and fungal numbers on his skin and in-turn further reduce the quantities of oral meds he will get through during his life.

With Guy Fawkes rapidly approaching I thought it timely to discuss options for this most common of animal noise phobia scenarios. For severely afflicted pets this time of year can be very distressing and owners can similarly suffer, observing their pet’s fear, property destruction, soiling or running away.

 

Some noise phobias appear to be "hardwired" and more resistant to change through training, than some other fears. This is therefore a challenging problem that can require months of re-training and chemical assistance. I start by using response substitution i.e. instead of hiding or showing other signs of anxiety; encourage the pet to sit calmly to get rewards.

 

Ask for the behavior (sit or down) and then reward immediately, rather than waiting for spontaneous calming. To achieve this during noxious sounds you must first have a dog that responds to commands in a quiet environment. Work on those basic commands of “sit” and “down” until the response is consistent and rapid.

 

Getting the desired behaviour during problem time is the next step (perhaps using a head halter to get attention and focus) and rewarding with praise and treats. If the dog is food-motivated they could redirect attention to food-filled Kongs or chew toys specially saved for scary times.

 

Desensitizing CDs can help during the management program. These come with a range of sounds including fireworks and the volume and frequency of these sounds can be slowly increased over time as our pets learn to react calmly.

 

This training in the absence of distractions is critical so that the owner has a means of calming and settling during real events rather than responding to the anxious dog in a way that might inadvertently reinforce or aggravate the problem behaviour.

 

Confining the dog, especially while no one is at home can be useful to prevent damage to the dog or the property. If they are comfortable in a crate, that's terrific, but crates can also present obstacles to some nervous dogs panicking and trying to escape. Alternatively a "safe haven" somewhere, usually a dark, quiet area of the house the dog selects, closet, hallway, spare bedroom, can be gated off, and preferably not shut with a door.

 

Some dogs respond well to anxiety wraps i.e. being cuddled up and partially covered with their own throw, often referred to as “storm capes”.

 

Drugs may be necessary to help control some of the anxiety and a combination of valium, sedatives; TCA’s and Prozac are available to us as veterinarians. Where possible any drug therapy should be given or present before the noise event. Drugs alone will never be effective.

 

DAP diffusers which plug into a power socket are also available for both cats and dogs. Some animals do respond very well to these products which release natural calming pheromones. Some daily massage sessions, with a relaxation scent (such as lavender) can be valuable to reduce general reactivity levels.

 

Regular aerobic activity can also enhance serotonin levels and reduce baseline anxiety levels. Please seek veterinary assistance if your pets are struggling with this problem.

BUSTING THE FLEA MYTHS

 

This has got to be an opportune time to bust open a few myths regarding our little local creeping parasites, FLEAS. Fleas love the heat. With this spectacular summer comes a hoard of the biting, jumping, blood suckers.

 

Please don’t dismiss them as a problem simply because you’ve only noticed one of the little suckers. The key is to wipe them out early.

 

Each female can lay 2000 eggs and only 5% of fleas are present in their adult form, so for every flea there is another 19 in egg or pupal form waiting in the shadows beneath you.

 

Adult fleas spend only 10% of their time on a cat or dog to feed, the rest of their day consists of running around your floors, carpets or lawns. This lead to the common statement; “but I haven’t seen any fleas on him” ….. doesn’t mean anything.

 

Now, doing some math’s, for every adult flea you find on “Old Yella” we’ve now got another 9 adults in your home and 190 juveniles busy developing at light speed in their ideal climate of 28 degrees and high humidity, i.e. February in Auckland.

 

The other big reason to wipe out each and every one of these parasites is that many cats and dogs are allergic to the bite, to the flea saliva. In these individuals a couple of bites will cause a massive hypersensitivity reaction leading to self mutilation.

 

In the current climate many clients are finding the need to apply good safe topical flea products at least every 4 weeks (sometimes every 2 to 3), the flea burden being massive at present.

 

Be aware you will need some really effective vet only treatment to do the job properly and fleas have developed resistance to many other older products.

 

These newer drugs are very safe, some cleverly work by spreading along the skin oil layers and are never absorbed into the animals body, and target insects very specifically.

 

Certainly this regime can then be extended out to every 2 months during the winter for animals without allergic conditions.

 

Don’t let your pets suffer with these critters, don’t let them get established in your home, seek your vets help to hit ‘em now and hit ‘em hard.

 

Happy “bug” hunting, Dr Alex Melrose.

Hi Alex. Please help me, and help Jack, my West Highland White Terrier. (Editor please note this is like a white version of your Scotties, even with the same name!)

 

We are overrun with blood sucking fleas. I dose Jock every 6 or 8 weeks with a flea vial. I get Frontline or Advantage or something like that. It doesn’t seem to be working anymore. Jack is chewing his bum and making quite a mess. I’ve got flea bites all over my legs. I haven’t started chewing them yet but it’s pretty unbearable. What can we try? Steve & Jack.

 

Hi. This is happening all over the place this summer. Fleas are reveling in the heat and humidity, perfect breeding conditions for them and there are a heap of them around right now, with the females dropping up to 2000 eggs each!

 

Those products you mentioned are excellent and safe so I wouldn’t switch to anything else. You are just going to have to dose Jack more frequently, like many other clients of ours in the midst of this fantastic summer weather.

 

With many dogs swimming a lot more, that can also rapidly strip the flea treatments out of the skin. We’ve found dosing as often as every 2 to 3 weeks is required in some cases. With safe products like those mentioned in your email, you won’t be “overdosing” him, or causing any illness.

 

Very little of the active chemicals are absorbed into the body, mainly working by spreading through the skin oil layers and binding to hair follicles. Without increasing the frequency drastically you just won’t mop up all the fleas in your environment now, remember for every one flea on Jock there are 9 more in your floors or lawn waiting to feed.

 

A scary thought. As it cools off later you can dose Jock less frequently again, stretching out to every 2 months over winter for animals without skin allergies. So don’t throw the Frontline or Advantage out, just use them more and consider bombing the house if upon close inspection your carpets appear to be moving.

Dear Doctor Alex, I’ve got a great 6 year old tabby cat which i rescued from a roadside ditch and bottle fed on kitten formula from 1 month of age. Xena has flourished since then and has never had a sick day in her life. I usually flea comb her and almost never find any fleas. Just the last few weeks though i‘ve had a real problem with her and fleas and have finally put a flea collar on her. The last couple of days she has been off her meals and dribbling more than usual and staying put in her cat bed. Could it be a reaction to the flea treatment? If I take the collar off what else can I try?

Lisa and Xena. Freemans bay.

 

Hi Lisa. An alarming number of cats are accidentally poisoned by common flea treatments available in supermarkets, and with summer fast approaching the frequency of these toxicities is going to rise again. Unfortunately a few cats die from this every year in New Zealand. In the case of flea collars the culprit is usually Permethrin. Which although marketed as natural (existing harmlessly in the environment in certain plants) it is still potentially very toxic. Certain individual cats and toy breed dogs have been shown to be very susceptible to this chemical as well as others chemicals present in cheap older-generation spot-on type products. Things can go particularly pear shaped if a product made for dogs is used mistakenly on cats. These will have higher doses of active ingredient and some have extra ingredients added which only dogs can tolerate. People can easily poison their cat by accident – buying a flea treatment they think will cost less and not reading the label properly. Signs of Permethrin poisoning certainly match those of Xena and can progress to in-coordination and seizures. Definitely remove her collar, try and wash her neck area and bring her up for us to assess for further treatment like IV fluids. I would strongly recommend only using vet only new generation safe flea products this summer.

Q. Alex, I heard you on 1ZB talking about heat stroke in dogs and wondered why our canine friends are more prone to this than people? I’m always really careful to keep Bruce (my Doberman) out of the heat at this time of the year so thankfully he’s been fine so far.

 

A. Dogs don’t have sweat glands like we do. They rely on convection to loose excess body heat and this process is much more efficient with air moving across the animal’s body surface.

 

Most of the heat would be dissipated from Bruce’s ears and panting tongue. Obviously exercising in the hottest parts of the day can be avoided, and shade and water should be available at all times.

 

Never leave dogs in a car during the day, especially after exercise, as even in the shade they simply will not be getting enough air movement to cool down.

 

Straight after exercise dogs can be cooled off with a swim or water from a hose. Cold water will drop a dog’s body temperature quickly if they are starting to show signs of heat stress.

 

In more serious cases ice packs and drugs need to be utilized by your vet to save their lives.

Q. I was out playing in the park a few days ago with my mad Boxer, Ralph. After we got home he was really restless, was rubbing himself lots and came up in small raised bumps all over his body.

 

I chucked him in a cold shower, washed him down and he calmed down gradually to look good by the next day. What was going on?

 

A. Ralph was having an anaphylactic allergic reaction to something he contacted at the park. Some type of plant would be at the top of the list of suspects with the pattern of bumps you’ve described, possibly Wandering Dew.

 

Antihistamines are safe and work well to settle these acute contact allergies quickly. We often use human products like Clarytyne at a high one off dose.

 

As you found washing helps and by trialing certain areas of the park at a time, you can often hone in on the offending plant and where to avoid it.

All of us humans are rushing madly along towards the holiday break, counting down the days. At VetCare we’ve got streams of cats and dogs (who are blissfully unaware of the silly season) coming in for last Minuit vaccinations before they head off for a holiday at assorted boarding kennels, including our own sumptuous cattery.

 

Our pets adjust surprisingly well to temporary holiday accommodation, becoming a lot less territorial when on neutral ground. Many really love the interaction with others in the communal area.

 

Whenever you are selecting their accommodation it’s a good idea to view a kennel or cattery yourself before committing to dropping off the furry kids. Steer clear of anywhere reluctant to allow inspections.

 

Check your pets will have plenty of space to exercise and play in, good spots to rest, and that the environment is very clean, well ventilated warm and secure. You can always drop off his/her bedding, toys and favourite treats to remind them of home.

 

Using a kennel or cattery attached to a vet hospital or with a strong working relationship with a nearby clinic is especially valuable for any animals with health conditions or ongoing medication. All good boarding premises will require current proof of vaccination.

 

With all vaccinations you want a minimum of 1 week between injection and potential challenge, so plan ahead. This period allows the body to pump out effective levels of antibodies to all the infections you’re trying to block.

 

Cats require at least a 3in1 vaccination; dogs require a 5 in 1, and a kennel cough jab. Up north here a Leptospirosis (spread by the Brown Rat) vaccination is also a good idea for our canine pets. If you’ve left booking a place too late or haven’t organized vaccinations then you could have a small dilemma on your hands. In this case, or if you have particularly unsocial pets, a good alternative is to get a pet minding service to look after the animal branch of the family tree.  

 

“Wags to Whiskers” ( 0800 028 888 ) and other pet service providers do a great job coming to your house, one or more times daily, to feed and give some love and attention in your absence. They will even clear your mail, water plants and keep the place looking occupied.

 

This is a good option for homebody cats that don’t tend to take off on huge adventures. This service isn’t suitable for any significant length of time with dogs but businesses like “Homesit” (0508 HOMESIT) can be useful to place someone in your home for the whole period you are off at the Bach.

 

Best wishes for the holiday period. Dr Alex Melrose.

Dear Emma,

 

Sam sounds like a thoroughly normal, well adjusted cat who likes to be command of his surroundings. You really have two main options for solving this vacation dilemma.

 

Firstly you could place him in a cattery, like the one we have at our VetCare clinic here in Grey Lynn. Although he is stubborn most cats will adjust surprisingly well to temporary cattery accommodation, becoming a lot less territorial when on neutral ground, some of them love the interaction with other cats in the communal area.

 

It’s a good idea to view a cattery before committing to dropping Sam off. Check he will have plenty of space to exercise and possibly play in, good spots to rest, and that the cattery is very clean, well ventilated warm and secure. You can always drop off his own bedding, toys and favourite treats to remind him of home. Using a cattery attached to a vet clinic is especially valuable for any animals with health conditions or ongoing medication.

 

The other good option for less social or home-body cats is to get a pet minding service to look after Sam while you are away. Wags to Whiskers ( 0800 028 888 ) and other pet service providers do a great job coming to your house, one or more times daily, to feed Sam and give him some love and attention in your absence. They will even clear your mail, water plants and keep the place looking occupied. This is a good option for cats that don’t tend to take off on huge adventures around the neighbourhood, preferring to hang closer to home.

 

Emma, feel free to drop in and inspect our cattery here at the clinic and I hope I have managed to allay some of your concerns, Regards, Dr Alex Melrose.

...So what do you do if you want the best for your pet without the worry of being unable to afford expensive treatment?  Pet insurance is the answer. By taking out pet insurance, you’re not only helping to cushion the costs of expensive veterinary procedures but also ensuring that your pets will get the treatment they need.

 

“With pet insurance, everybody wins,” says veterinarian Alex Melrose of the Vet Care Animal Hosptial in Grey Lynn, Auckland. “It makes a big difference to the clients who are not of high income to be able to do what you really want for a member of your family without cutting any corners or going through the anguish of not being able to afford any proper treatment. And I’ve seen the reverse, where everybody loses.

 

For example, where people don’t have income that can afford pet treatment, you’re going to have to euthanize 7 out of 10 road traffic accidents. The pet loses because it’s dead, the owner loses because he’s got a dead pet and you lose as a veterinarian because you’re not able to do what you were trained to do and what you want to do.”

 

In fact, Melrose feels strongly that pet insurance should be an essential part of being a responsible owner. “If you’re going to have an animal, you should look after it to a certain level – that’s part of the responsibility of choosing to have one right from the start. Pet insurance just provides that compulsory saving – putting aside money which will cover costs that you’re going to incur in having a pet over several years – it’s part of being a responsible owner.”

 

Unlike other parts of the world, especially the UK, pet insurance has not been common in New Zealand: despite having some of the highest pet ownership levels per capita, less than 2% of the country's pets are insured. This might be due to under-exposure to the concept (Kiwis simply don’t know or think of insuring their pets, whereas the average British pet owner considers pet insurance as normal and standard) – or a misconception that pet insurance is only necessary for expensive pedigree breeds.

 

“Yes, certain breeds are predisposed to having a lot more problems – such as any of the brachycephalic breeds,” says Melrose. “But to be honest, you can give me any breed and I can say something that’s more likely to go wrong with it. Even with mix-breed dogs and cats, there can still be a lot of issues not connected to breed, such as abscesses, problems with its teeth as it gets older, wounds from fighting, possibly allergies, skin conditions or diseases from socialising – these are things we see all the time, plus the injuries and accidents that no-one planned for.”

 

And although larger breeds will generally cost more as many treatments are calculated based on weight, it doesn’t mean that if you have a small dog, you can safely skip on insurance either.

 

“These toy dogs and toy-dog crosses that everyone’s getting now – they’re in the clinic all the time!” laughs Melrose. “They’ve got crowded mouths, squashed faces, can’t breathe that well, injure their eyes a lot because they’re quite protruding; often they’re carried a lot so they’re dropped – drop injuries – a whole subset of things that are unique to small breeds.”

 

New Zealanders’ attitudes to pet insurance are changing though. Interest has been growing, with increased marketing activity from pet insurance companies giving the industry a much-needed boost.

 

 “In the last 12 months, a lot of new clients coming to the clinic have been asking if there is such a thing as pet insurance and whether we have any info on it...certainly a year or two ago, that wasn’t happening at all,” observes Dr Melrose, adding that they recommend pet insurance to all their new pet owners.

I am getting asked more and more frequently about insurance for pets. Frankly I think it’s a great thing for all new pet owners to get.

 

I emphasise new owners because insuring older animals may not be as beneficial with any pre existing conditions being excluded. These exclusions are much more likely to mount up later in a pet’s life. I was lucky enough to work over in Europe for 2 years and pet insurance was well established there even back then.

 

I’m glad it’s becoming more established and affordable now here in NZ. The way I see it is that everybody wins. Pet insurance invariably leads to more serious health problems being fixed, to less euthenasia and to fewer corners having to be cut because of cost restrictions.

 

The furry patient wins because difficult problems such as compound road traffic fractures or cancer can be planned out and treated thoroughly right from the get go, leading to much better outcomes and quality of life. The client wins because they have a live, healthy cat and haven’t gone into large amounts of debt to achieve this.

 

They also haven’t ended up horribly stuck between a rock and a hard place deciding between euthanasia and an unaffordable bill. As a vet we win because we can use all our skills and knowledge to the full and get the satisfaction of providing the very best in pet care.

 

Three main companies now offer comprehensive, lasting pet insurance here in Auckland. Prices start from $2 a week for cats and $3 a week for dogs, covering $6000 worth of care in a calendar year. Not bad for massive peace of mind.

 

There are discounts for multiple pets and coverage can include vaccination, chipping, neutering, boarding, right through to major surgery and even advertising for lost pets. The next time you’re in at VetCare Grey Lynn or at your own vet grab a pamphlet and check out the benefits for yourself.

 

Kind Regards, Dr Alex Melrose.

Hi Alex

 

I have a 12 year old cat that we rescued when she was 4 weeks old. She has been deaf for a number of years now so she lives indoors permanently. Lately she has been scratching a lot and she doesn't have fleas.

 

It has got to the point now that she has sores around her neck. And now she starts growling, meaning it obviously hurts when she scratches. She is also very irritable and wont sleep at night as she is too busy scratching.

 

It keeps me awake as she usually sleeps on my bed. If we put her down the other end of the house, she goes nuts and we come out in the morning to be greeted by destruction. My mother and I are at our wits end. Is there anything else we can do? Thanks, Shanyn.

 

Hi Shanyn. Many older cats (especially if partially deaf or blind) can start doing some peculiar senility-related behaviours and vocalizations.

 

In this instance I think there is too much scratching going on here for that to be your scenario. As far as the fleas go, never rely on just not seeing fleas on her as they spend 90% of the time off the animal.

 

Stand her on white paper or other material and comb her fur so her hair falls all over it. Check for any black specs. If you find some please add water to them. If a reddish tinge comes leaking out they are flea droppings, the red being partially digested blood. If the combings are all clear I would consider three other causes of sudden scratching centered on the head.

 

Dietary allergies will often cause self trauma, particularly around the head but at the senior age of 12 would require a sudden change of diet. Ear mites and tooth root disease are more likely and will both cause dramatic signs like those you’ve witnessed.

 

To assess things further you really need to have a vet's experienced assessment and either medicated ear drops or the removal of offending teeth. I think it would be a great idea to give her a check over with us here at VetCare to narrow down the possibilities, kind regards,  Dr Alex Melrose.

Hi Dr Alex, I’ve got a gristly bone to grind with my usual kennel where Caesar, my beautiful Staffie stays whenever we go away on holiday. I went to drop him up there last week on our way out of town and they turned him away.

 

Fortunately I got a friend to take him at their home, so our trip wasn’t ruined but it was a really stressful experience. Although he had a nasal kennel cough vaccination 5 days prior they said this wasn’t good enough. We had that vaccination done especially at the kennel’s request because his annual shots were given 9 months before. What are they going on about? Confused in Ponsonby, Margaret.

 

Hi Margaret, this kennel cough scenario does my head in. I really sympathise with you. It is a disease which is a big risk when a large number of dogs are gathered in a small area, namely kennels. It’s caused by various combinations of 20 different bacteria and viruses.

 

The kennel cough vaccination blocks one of the worst of these, the annual shots includes protection against another of the worst respiratory viruses. The kennel cough vaccination gives 12 months protection, and is licensed for this having undergone stringent and well documented testing. Many years ago earlier versions of this vaccination did not have such a long effect.

 

Unfortunately for you and Caesar many kennels have refused to adopt this new information. The intra-nasal version of the vaccination that Caesar had actually works within 3 days to give faster protection than the standard type of jab which takes 1 week to reach full effect.

 

This is handy when travel plans are last Minuit. Caesar was as fully protected against kennel cough as you can get and he should have been taken in at your kennel. As educated clients of these pet accommodations you need to work together with the veterinary community to update information and change these unfounded demands.

Hi Alex, I’ve afraid I’ve got some issues with my Blue Heeler “Beema” and I’m somewhat confused and unsure where to go from here. I haven’t seen you for ages since I moved out of Grey Lynn and have been using another vet. They’ve taken her off her Metacam drops because of some kidney troubles starting up. As of a couple of weeks ago she was on no meds for her arthritis and she won't eat the special dog food with kidney medicines in it. So now she is actually getting no meds for either arthritis or kidney problems. I've been feeding her boiled chicken and rice and she's lost quite a bit of condition. What else could I be doing?? Regards, Jim.

Hi Jim, I’m really sorry to hear that. I’m glad they’ve taken her off the nsaids as they will play havoc with kidneys and gut lining if she started to dehydrate with the kidneys struggling to retain fluids. Instead we’ve got to reach for supportive arthritis treatments. I would go with glucosamine and green lip mussel extracts as either a powder or capsule. I’d also add fish or flax seed oil supplements for her joints. In addition it’s well worth trialling 4 injections (once weekly) of Cartrophen (a glycosaminoglycan) which supports joint surface rebuilding and then give a single dose once monthly if good improvement is observed. We are fortunate now at the many quality pet food brands that make a full range of kidney diets with different flavours and textures. Keep trying all types until you hit one she likes. Kidney medications I would use would include Famox tablets twice daily to settle gut lining and increase appetite (to assist our dietary modification). I’d also try an ace inhibitor to increase kidney blood flow and thereby function, reducing fluid, protein, mineral and water soluble vitamin loss. If we can get Beema eating and well hydrated she could do well for years to come. Kind regards, Dr Alex Melrose. VetCare Grey Lynn. 408 great North Rd. 09 3613500. www.vetcare.net.nz .

Dr Alex, I’m after some advice about a lump that has sprung up on throat of my 3 year old Scottish terrier. I felt it under Wolfe’s throat about 2 weeks ago and have been worrying since. I play wrestle with the little guy all the time and would have noticed if it had been there for longer. It’s about 2cm in size and he is scratching at it and making it red and weepy. What do I need to do? Steve, Grey Lynn.

 

Hi Steve, I think you should get this lump of Wolfe’s looked at straight away. We would examine the mass and look for certain danger signs. Anytime there is rapid growth, inflammation, redness, discharge, ulceration or discomfort we usually need to take some immediate action.

 

These are all signs of change and of potentially aggressive behaviour of a skin mass. We need to get a sample and have that tested at our local Laboratory. The characteristics of a mass determine which method of sampling we would employ.

 

Some small, shallow lumps can be aspirated with a needle painlessly while the patient is conscious and a slide then prepared for microscopy (cytology). In Wolfe’s case it is more likely we would perform an excisional biopsy. We would usually give patients a very brief general anesthetic for this although sedation and local anaesthesia is also available to us.

 

A slice of tissue from this method gives us more detailed and accurate information (histology) on the type of growth and also on whether or not we got it all out by checking all the edges are clear of neoplastic cells. Lab results are returned within days. From what you describe Wolfe could have a benign Histiocytoma, common in young dogs.

 

These masses usually require removal anyway as they become very itchy. The more serious and rarer Mast Cell Tumour has a similar appearance and provides a strong example of why everything like this should be tested, if not removed.

Hi Alex,

I’m writing to you as I have gone through a pretty traumatic and unusual experience with my young dog “Star”. I would like to know about micro-chipping to try to reduce the chance of this problem reoccurring. Star was taken from my property several weeks ago, I had been at work and returned to find her missing from my yard with a suspicious trail of dog treats scattered around by the front gate, which was securely closed.  

 

I started searching everywhere nearby, all the time with a sinking feeling of loss. I put up numerous flyers and contacted all the local Vet Clinics, the SPCA and the Dog Pound and some radio stations.  While checking the pet section in the local paper I noticed a young dog offered for sale that matched Star’s description.

 

I phoned and arranged a time to meet the “owner”, suspiciously, at a park rather than at their home. Standing in front of me was a big rough looking guy and my Star. After a fair bit of uncomfortable banter along the lines of “she’s my dog”, retorted with “prove it”, I decided to just pay the $150 and get her back. Man was I lucky. The police indicated that this happens dozens of times a week throughout Auckland. Would a microchip help in these situations? (Lucky) Star and Steve, Grey Lynn.

 

Hi Steve, great effort in getting her back, you covered all your options really well. It’s shocking to hear that this type of theft is common practice for some idiots. I would still emphasise that it is still a good idea for all pets to be wearing a pet tag on their collar with your contact number.

 

The vast majority of missing pets can then be returned by honest people with a heart. Micro chipping obviously helps in situations like this where theft has occurred, or where tags have been lost. The grain of rice sized chip sits under the skin between your pet’s shoulder blades and carries a one-off individual code.

 

Any vet or animal shelter will have a scanner to read this number and thereby retrieve all your contact details from a central registry. A micro-chip would have allowed you and the police to prove a theft had occurred. Chipping is planned to become compulsory for all new dog registrations from this April this year to clarify dog ownership issues.

 

I would strongly recommend getting this done by an accredited vet clinic with the most up to date chips and that are part of the Australasian wide registry organization. The chips can be inserted with local anaesthetic or during a general for some other procedure, neutering being an opportune time.

Hi Alex, I have a 5 month old female Staffordshire Bull Terrier, who I think has an allergy. She developed it from around 2months old. She constantly gnaws and chews at her paws, legs and her belly.

 

As the day progresses her belly gets redder and redder and looks really painful and inflamed. I’ve been trying her on a low residue dry food. She has been on this now for approx 2 weeks, although don’t really see any difference. I have also got some steroid cream for her but find this very difficult to use on her without her licking it off and it doesn’t seem to have made any difference either. I’ve read that fish oils are very good.

 

I was also interested in finding out about the Atopica tablet. I really want to do the best for my puppy as she is obviously in pain. Many thanks, Lesley.

 

Hi Lesley, I’m sorry to hear of your l puppy’s skin problems, very distressing for her and for you. Certainly a dietary trial is a good safe option when we suspect food allergies and you need to feed that type of hypoallergenic food exclusively for 6 weeks solid before judging results.

 

Fish and Flax Seed oils help with all dermatitis. Atopica (cyclosporine) is a great, safe drug for certain types of skin allergies, its only real drawback being cost, so these are all great questions to ask.

 

However the big clue here is her age of onset of clinical signs. It’s very rare for a dog to develop a skin allergy as young as 2 months. It usually requires a longer period of exposure for the body to mount an inappropriate overreaction, more typically showing up between 6 and 12 months.

 

Especially in a Staffie, being predisposed by breed genetics, I would be very suspicious of Demodex Mites, possibly even Sarcoptes.

 

I think the next step is to perform skin scrape tests which provide slides for microscope examination. Bring her in and let us see if we can find any of these cigar-shaped, multi legged critters wriggling around. Kind regards, Dr Alex Melrose.

Hi Alex, I have a 5 month old female Staffordshire Bull Terrier, who I think has an allergy. She developed it from around 2months old. She constantly gnaws and chews at her paws, legs and her belly. 

 

As the day progresses her belly gets redder and redder and looks really painful and inflamed.  I’ve been trying her on a low residue dry food. She has been on this now for approx 2 weeks, although don’t really see any difference. I have also got some steroid cream for her but find this very difficult to use on her without her licking it off and it doesn’t seem to have made any difference either.

 

I’ve read that fish oils are very good. I was also interested in finding out about the Atopica tablet.  I really want to do the best for my puppy as she is obviously in pain. Many thanks, Lesley.

 

Hi Lesley, I’m sorry to hear of your l puppy’s skin problems, very distressing for her and for you. Certainly a dietary trial is a good safe option when we suspect food allergies and you need to feed that type of hypoallergenic food exclusively for 6 weeks solid before judging results.

 

Fish and Flax Seed oils help with all dermatitis. Atopica (cyclosporine) is a great, safe drug for certain types of skin allergies, its only real drawback being cost, so these are all great questions to ask. However the big clue here is her age of onset of clinical signs. It’s very rare for a dog to develop a skin allergy as young as 2 months.

 

It usually requires a longer period of exposure for the body to mount an inappropriate overreaction, more typically showing up between 6 and 12 months. Especially in a Staffie, being predisposed by breed genetics, I would be very suspicious of Demodex Mites, possibly even Sarcoptes.

 

I think the next step is to perform skin scrape tests which provide slides for microscope examination. Bring her in and let us see if we can find any of these cigar-shaped, multi legged critters wriggling around.

Dear Barbara,

It sounds like you have a fantastic menagerie at your house. I can envisage a place that Gerald Durrell, the exceptional naturalist and explorer, would be proud to call home.

 

Let’s take it from the beginning. Top marks for your families love of animals, and for the plan to save a life by adopting from the SPCA. I’m betting that the Border Collie would be fine, she is just exhibiting instinctive territorial aggression in guarding “her” section from cunning marauding cats, and probably enjoys the mental tussle with them.

 

A cat introduced as part of the family shouldn’t trigger this response. A kitten would be a safer option for introduction to a multi-pet household, not having learnt any fear of dogs and adult cats previously, and therefore being less likely to run and trigger a chase response from your bitch.

 

A kitten is also less likely to cause competitive aggression from either of your cats. It sounds as though the queen would be unlikely to do anything other than eat more, and then grow correspondingly. I’m assuming the jealous tom is neutered as not doing this would have lead to some spectacular disasters long before this. He would be the main problem.

 

There would be a real possibility of him attacking a new cat, and damaging a little kitten. If this did not occur the chance of him starting to spray inside or just taking off completely is pretty high. Households with 3 or more cats are much more likely to have to endure any number of these behavioural problems.

 

The bottom line is you wouldn’t know until you tried, but it could create some real stress amongst the three cats and their human servants. The Border Collie would just get on with being super smart and taking the world one day at a time. Good luck juggling everything, Dr Alex Melrose.

Neutering male cats (Toms) vastly reduces the likelihood of some really undesirable behaviours.  In some cases this means you have prevented your beautiful little kitten turning into a testosterone fuelled monster. 

 

Fighting with other cats is much less likely, a big plus for the mental health of your neighbours and for the physical health of all cats nearby, not only yours. This in turn reduces the likelihood of abscesses and blood born bacteria which cause internal organ damage to the heart, kidneys and liver.

 

Fatal viruses such as Leukaemia and Feline Aids(spread by bites) are also much less likely to infect your furry friend. He will smell a lot less, as will his urine and will be less likely to wander, crossing dangerous roads further afield.

 

He is also unlikely to spray his scent and urine all over your house or prized items of furniture.

 

Speying female cats (Queens) is going to stop them becoming pregnant, and will do so very effectively. Cats are machines when it comes to breeding and will get pregnant very young (sometimes at less than 6 months!) and keep doing so many times a year.

 

In a young cat this prevents full growth and development and eats up all body reserves and weakens the immune system. This in turn exposes the young female to lots of bacterial and viral illness.

 

The queen will also be much more prone to physical and infectious attacks from Toms and will take off looking for a mate increasing the risk of trauma from road traffic, dog encounters and the like.

Hi Alex,
We have a 14 year old Miniature Pinscher. Some noises have recently started making him behave as though they are painful to him, or upset him in some way - when we cough (have both just had the flu), when the TV is on (he used to sleep almost in front of it and now leaves the room), the car radio (he cowers in the corner of the back seat until I turn it off).

 

Sam appears otherwise healthy, and is on Vivitonin 1/4 tablet twice daily and still barks at anyone with the audacity to walk along the road, and helpfully lets us know loudly if the phone rings. Thanks, Hope you can give us some ideas,
Sue, Wanganui

 

Hi Sue. First of all I think Sam needs a thorough ear examination (sometimes requiring sedation) to look at any possible changes to his ear drums. A blood screen would be next to search for internal diseases which are recognized as sometimes causing behavioural changes.

 

Liver and kidney function deterioration, and endocrine diseases such as Cushings, have all been shown to induce some pretty strange actions from pets. All of these can also cause Alzheimer Type II degenerative changes over time in cat and dog brains.

 

If tests give the all clear then I would trial bringing him off the Vivitonin. It is a drug which dilates microvasculature in the brain, usually to good effect in senior animals. I wonder if in this case its central neurological effects are altering his processing of sound signals.

 

Another potential cause could be high calorie; high protein diets precluding Sam to a more easily excitable state. If there have been any changes in his diet lately, or he is on some pretty rich food I would try some good quality, low cal, “senior” dog food.

 

Unfortunately, right at the more sinister end of the scale, noise sensitivity is also commonly associated with brain masses. I hope that there is a simple remedy to help Sam with his unusual situation, kind regards, Dr Alex Melrose.

The obesity epidemic is beginning to seriously affect our country’s cat and dog population and our pets are living up to two years less as a result, says Veterinarian Dr Alex Melrose.

 

Dr Melrose, from VetCare Grey Lynn, is on a mission to help reduce the weight of our cats and dogs – as many as one in three of which are thought to be overweight – and a growing number of them are obese.

Australian studies show 41 percent of dogs and one in three cats are overweight* and Dr Melrose believes the levels within New Zealand pets are no different.

 

“This is a serious health issue for New Zealand’s animals. It can significantly curtail their lives, and their enjoyment of life,” says Dr Melrose.

 

“Many Kiwis simply can’t see they’re harming their pets with too much food and too little exercise. If they knew the extent of the harm they would be horrified. It’s time we gave this issue as much attention as human obesity gets. After all, we are in control of what goes into our pets’ mouth.”

 

Dr Melrose said pets could lose on average up to two years of life when obese, based on a 15 to 18 year maximum life expectancy. That’s more than 10 percent less life than if they maintained a healthy weight. 

 

“But it’s not just about how long they live, it’s about whether they can enjoy their lives too. Being overweight creates serious health disorders and it significantly impedes any recovery from illness or injury.”

 

Clinical studies show overweight dogs are 74 percent more likely to develop circulatory diseases; 64 percent more likely to develop reproductive diseases and 57 percent more likely to develop mobility disorders than dogs at optimum weight.**

 

Like humans, Dr Melrose says the key to healthier and longer lives is both exercise and proper nutrition – particularly the premium pet foods whose range includes effective weight control diets.

 

Nutrition

“Pet owners need to control their pets’ diets, just as they’d control their own. If you cut off your bacon rind because you know it’s bad for you, don’t then give it to your cat or dog.”

 

Proper and controlled feeding is critical and Dr Melrose says pet owners should be wary of pet foods that promote palatability over health.

 

“Palatability often equals high fat and salt content. Pets enjoy the taste of high fat, salty foods which they obviously don’t know are bad for them. Too often pet owners lack this knowledge too.”

 

He encouraged pet owners to carefully read the labels, just as they would on their own food.

 

Animals who are overweight or obese should be put on a reduced calorie diet. Pet food makers have recognised there’s a need to provide foods to help pets reach their healthy size, and premium pet food brands have very effective weight control ranges for cats and dogs.

 

Once the kilos are off, they should be fed a premium food diet with the correct levels for their size, age and individual metabolism– as recommended by a vet or a pet nutrition expert.

 

Exercise

“We live in a society that’s becoming increasingly time-poor and too often our pets, particularly dogs, are the ones that suffer. Then, we give them a treat to compensate for not taking them for a proper walk.”

 

Dr Melrose said dogs who had not had much exercise, or who were overweight or obese, should begin with low level exercise, increasing in duration and intensity as the weight comes off.

 

Ideally, all healthy dogs should be getting 60 minutes of proper exercise each day for mental and physical well-being.

Hi pet lovers from the team at VetCare Grey Lynn. There has been some interesting data coming out of the U.S. and Australia which applies to our pets here in N.Z. which I would like to share with you.

 

41 % of all pets across the ditch are overweight! Surely there wouldn’t be much difference between their furry population and our own. Couple this with new data from America that illustrates an average shortening of lifespan in obese animals by two years and this gets pretty concerning.

 

Apart from the shorter life these guys have to be enjoying much less quality of life with more joint disease, heart and pancreatic disorders, less energy and limited mobility. This trend is of course a function of our own rapidly changing society. Dogs in particular have no say over what goes into their often gaping mouth; we have to put our hands up as we control their diet and their exercise. 

 

First up do a little test on your pet. Run your hands over the sides of their chest. You should be able to easily feel their ribs, not a whole lot of thick skin. Secondly at the back of the ribs they should taper in to a waist. Another couple of areas they will store excess fat is the love handles over their hips, and on their tummy.

 

If you still aren’t sure if your beloved pet is overweight, then come and ask one of our staff what their ideal weight should be. If they are a little out of shape its good to get a starting weight so you can graph any changes as you go.

 

Then you’ve got two choices with diet. Either reduce the volume by at least 1/4, or change to a premium quality low calorie pet food, especially formulated to drop the kilos (or do both). The second part of the equation is exercise. With cats you can excite them with feather danglers or get them to chase streamers, paper or toy prey. Hours of fun for the whole family.

 

Everyone with dogs should be walking them off the section for at least 45 to 60 Minuits per day. Regardless of the size of your back yard they need this for mental stimulation as well as physical.

 

If time is limited due to other commitments consider using a dog walking service, such as Wags to Whiskers (0800 028 888). Through sound animal health awareness we can nip this weight problem, and the increased potential for associated disease, in the bud before it affects our furry companions.

Alex,

I’m often down at Cox’s bay being exercised by my two energetic Staffies. The last time I was down there my club of fellow dog owners were talking about a Parvo outbreak in Auckland’s dogs. Should I be worried for my two boys, they were both vaccinated about 9 months ago. What’s going on out there? Simon, Westmere.

 

Simon,

Your friends are correct; there is an outbreak of Parvovirus at the moment, mainly in the South and West of Auckland. We haven’t seen any cases up here in Grey Lynn but there have been a number of dogs coming in with more mild types of gastroenteritis, exhibiting vomiting and diarrhoea for 2 to 3 days, then recovering.

 

Parvo is a much more severe form of gut infection, dogs will collapse with explosive, bloody bowel movements, dehydrate quickly and suffer terribly. Hospitalisation and treatment will save their lives in 50 percent of these cases.

 

It is a very hardy virus that survives well on grass or pavement for up to 2 years, spreading without direct contact between dogs, and is thus very difficult to eradicate or even avoid. For this reason public areas should be avoided by puppy owners until they have had their full course of shots.

 

Fortunately today’s vaccines are very effective at stopping the disease. Your two Staffies, being current with their injections, should be immune and would have only a tiny chance of catching this illness.

 

I think this outbreak should serve as a reminder to repeat Parvovirus vaccinations yearly in all dogs (the latest vaccines do last longer than this) and to seek immediate veterinary treatment for any dog showing signs of gastroenteritis.

Regards, Alex.

Hi guys, just wanted to ask Alex a question. We are getting a new puppy the week before Christmas. As you know we already have Zadie and our cat Marney. We also have a lab from next door, "Jack" who comes everywhere with us. This summer we are going away to Rakino Island with everyone mentioned above. Is it safe to have our new puppy running around on our property over there? Also there are a few people who wanted to bring their dogs over for the time they are staying. Would it be best to tell them not to bring their dogs? Your advice would be greatly appreciated. S.

 

Hi, sure sounds like an action filled Christmas coming up. Once the new pup is 13 weeks old (one week after his 12 week, and final puppy vaccination) he can run around on public ground, pavement and parks. Before that point the risk of Parvovirus is too high on areas where large numbers of dogs could have had access.  Parvovirus sets the gold standard for infectious disease precaution in dogs due to its ridiculously strong persistence in our environment. Any sick dog could have shed some virus on a sidewalk as it walked by, and the virus will remain infectious to any passing dog for up-to 2 years despite exposure to all the elements! Incredible, and potentially fatal, without any direct contact with a sick dog.  I personally think its ok to have healthy, fully vaccinated dogs to socialise at your own, well fenced place before that. True a tiny risk is present of these dogs carrying viruses on their fur, but there is a large benefit in social development for your pup. As long as they are gentle, well socialised dogs that will take it easy on the little guy, then I think you will have a great summer at Rakino. Regards and best wishes for the summer holidays, Dr Alex Melrose. BVSc MRCVS. VetCare Grey Lynn, 408 Great North Rd. 09 3613500, www.vetcare.net.nz.

I am hoping U might be able to help with a diagnosis..............

My 5 year old German Pointer suddenly showed a reluctance to put any weight on her front paw,

but showed no signs of pain when I examined toe pads & joints.

 

Just as things seemed to be getting better, she developed a nasal discharge & a huge fever. She refused to eat, was totally lethargic & I can feel a swollen lymph gland in the underarm of the affected paw. Not much change with regard to limping . Now there is a marked loss of muscle in that shoulder. Any thoughts come to mind? Denise, Auckland City.

 

Hi Denise, Please come in and get this seen to straight away. I am most suspicious of her having a foreign body trapped inside that limb, possibly moving its way up from the paw.

 

This time of year grass seed arrowheads commonly lodge themselves between the toes of dogs. They can sometimes leave only the tiniest of entry holes which can rapidly close over being difficult to then localise.

 

Individual dogs may then be quite stoic when the paw is poked and prodded despite not wanting to weight bear. The body then starts a strong reaction to this invader often characterised by swollen lymph nodes in the affected limb and fevers.

 

In worst case scenarios these can track right up the limb and into the chest or spine causing death. The longer they are present the harder they are for us to track down to remove.

 

We would also analyse a needle sample of the swollen lymph tissue to check for other causes of swelling such as neoplasia, or systemic disease.

 

Let’s confirm things with a thorough examination and get her onto some antibiotics, painkillers and track down this probable invader.

Hi Alex. I was flicking through some on-line news stories and was quite disturbed about an article regarding pet food safety and it’s similarity to the Chinese Baby Formula tragedy.

 

Thousands of North American pet owners whose dogs and cats died last year after eating contaminated pet food traced to China could be close to a $45 million settlement. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration found that the food contained melamine, a chemical used to make plastics.

 

The chemical was traced to contaminated wheat gluten imported from China, which had then been incorporated into over 90 different pet food brands. With this sort of stuff going on how can I go about picking safe food for my cats?

Regards, Erica, Eden Terrace.

 

Hi Erica. This was surely a shocking situation for all those poor owners and their ill pets. It is estimated that over 10,000 animals were affected in Canada and the U.S.

 

At the time we had many concerned queries here at the clinic and were able to quickly re-assure our clients of the lack of threat to pets here in NZ. None of the pet food poisoned with the melamine was produced by manufacturers that supply our country.

 

As you have suggested the melamine damage to pets closely mirrors the recent damage to babies in China. Renal shutdown leads rapidly to death and leaves a gaping hole in those pet’s owner’s lives. The best advice I can give is to investigate each brand’s ingredients really thoroughly and look at the depth of testing processes that each company applies to its product.

 

Many products specify “AAFCO Approved”, but this really just means the initial formulation the product was designed to meets recommended standards. Try to differentiate this from a much more beneficial “AAFCO Tested”, where the pet food is regularly sampled to confirm superior quality.

 

Ingredient-wise many pet-food labels may state “Chicken” (for example), but examination of the label will show chicken, beef, lamb, pork and unspecified animal fats are mixed into the product.

 

The problem with this quality of pet food is that depending on which protein sources are available most cheaply at the time, so the ingredients will alter from batch to batch. In summary read the fine print, and personally I think we should push our law makers to include compulsory information on country of origin.

This month I thought i'd offer a smorgasbord of pet related websites to visit. First cab off the rank is Animals Asia. This conservation organization has rescued over 500 moon bears from barbaric bile milking and is slowly and relentlessly building public support to stop the practice entirely. I’ve met Jill myself while she was in NZ fundraising and can’t overemphasize the respect I have for her. www.animalsasia.org . 

 

www.arkive.org is a fantastic site packed with vivid photo and video images and detailed information about wildlife from all over the globe for your perusal.

 

If you ever come across a lost pet, or suffer the distress of one of your own going missing I would direct you straight to www.petsonthenet.co.nz . This is the largest lost and found tool in NZ and also has tons of other information about quality pet service providers.

 

www.dogster.com and www.catster.com are huge international sites where you can go nuts posting blogs, photos, videos about your furry children, and build an in-depth  profile for them to socialize with other pet lovers and their animals. These sites now have over half a million members!

www.sancarlosvet.com/Humor/index.shtml hosts a collection of comedic images and musings for cat and dog aficionados. It puts a warm smile on your face which is always healthy. For anyone thinking about getting a new puppy or kitten there are some helpful references available.

www.nzcatfancy.gen.nz and www.nzkc.org.nz are the registered sites for all accredited breeders of cats and dogs respectively, in NZ. They supply breed specific info to help you make the right choice of pet from the start, and provide contact details and links for each breeding establishment around the country.

 

www.petnet.com.au/selectapet.asp goes into even more detail. You can plug in some crucial information about yourself, your lifestyle and expectations for pet ownership and hey presto the electronic brain conjures a list of most appropriate breeds for you to consider. Anything that gets pet ownership going well right from the beginning is brilliant as far as I’m concerned.

 

Auckland City Council site also offers some thoughts regarding dog breeds, responsible ownership in their eyes, and other details about registration and dog friendly parks for pooch owners to make use of. www.aucklandcity.govt.nz/council/services/dogs/guidechoosing.asp

An important role of veterinarians, and of the wider community, is to help protect ourselves and animals under our care from foreign invaders, this MAF site gives you all the usual suspects’ mug shots. Be alert. www.biosecurity.govt.nz/pest-and-disease-response .

 

Finally let’s head to Africa, where some larger versions of our domesticated friends can be seen frolicking on the excellent www.africam.com/wildlife/index.php , featuring some very cool leopard, eagle and elephant live cameras. Enjoy, Regards, Dr Alex Melrose

No Smint No Kiss

 

I’m often asked by concerned pet owners about what common substances may be toxic to their furry extended family. The topics we discuss include some of the common things like chocolate, onions & lilies and then expand into medicines like Dettol and Paracetamol. All the above substances being potentially fatal.

 

The latter is especially deadly in cats. Lately more unusual things such as tap water and preservatives are getting a lot of discussion as to their possible effect on our pet’s health conditions such as skin allergies. One of the latest findings in a study of dogs in America was particularly interesting to me and I thought I should pass it on.

 

A pattern was noticed of dogs presenting at vet clinics with marked vomiting and lethargy after the ingestion of Xylitol. Xylitol is a sugar alcohol used as a sweetener in various products including breath mints and sugar substitutes. In addition to vomiting and lethargy, many of the dogs had widespread hemorrhages in the mouth or intestinal tract.

 

Blood tests performed on all dogs showed a similar picture of hypoglycemia, serious liver enzyme elevation, loss of liver function and damage to red blood cells and clotting cells.  Despite concentrated treatment efforts, in some cases including transfusions, more than ½ of these poor guys didn’t pull through.

 

Autopsies showed sévere liver damage with lobular collapse. Hepatic failure after ingestion had not previously been reported. Because an increasing number of consumer products contain Xylitol, pet owners should be aware that ingestion of Xylitol can have serious, life-threatening effects.

 

Please think twice before using human medicines, or before sharing processed human foods with our pets. In many cases their bodies utilize and eliminate these compounds very differently to their human minders, unfortunately sometimes with severe consequences.

Hi Dr Alex, my beautiful Chihuahua is about to become a first-time mother! We mated her several times over 3 days, about 1 month ago and since then she’s been growing steadily and eating for many. As this is a first time experience for me also I was hoping you could offer some advice on what to do to get Ruby ready for the big day. Thank you for any assistance, Eliza and Ruby, Grey Lynn.

 

Hi Eliza, so Ruby has 5 weeks to go, exciting stuff. Just to differentiate the pregnancy from a false one, or a case of food-worship, I suggest a simple blood test to confirm her condition. This test is accurate from 3 and ½ weeks into gestation.

 

Ruby will require regular de-worming and flea control while she is pregnant, with parasite control products that are safe to use during this critical time. A bitch in good physical condition will have fewer problems delivering her pups so Ruby will benefit from regular exercise.

 

Weight control is important because more delivery problems are seen in overweight dogs, so allow her to put on some extra condition but don’t overdo it. Switch her onto high-quality balanced puppy formula dog food. Its higher calcium and protein content will assist foetal development and milk production.

 

Gradually increase the amount of food during pregnancy so your dog’s caloric intake reaches 1.5 times its normal amount. You may need to offer several small meals each day as pregnancy reduces the amount of food her stomach can hold. During pregnancy, you may notice vaginal discharges.

 

Occasional mucus discharge is normal. If the discharge contains fresh blood or pus, contact us immediately because it could indicate serious complications.  A few weeks before delivery, carefully select a safe and secluded area and provide a cut-down box with an edge that your dog can deliver her puppies in.

 

Allow Ruby to become used to it. And line the box with washable rugs or blankets to give puppies good footing for nursing and crawling, which helps their legs and feet develop properly. You should also examine her mammary glands regularly.

 

Firm or painful mammary glands may indicate mastitis, an inflammation of the mammary gland which requires immediate treatment. Swing in with Ruby shortly and we will confirm her condition and grab the best food and parasite treatments for her

Hi Doctor Alex, I have a two year old male rainbow lorikeet. He is very clever and talks to us all, but he gets very demanding and when he does not get the company he wants he screeches and sometimes bites. How can I protect the neighbours from this noise, and us from the pain, other than giving him time out indoors? He lives in an open aviary on the verandah with his wings clipped and I fear I am looking at more than 20 years of this behaviour He is well endowed with toys and has a close friendship with the cat (he cleans her ears). I did wonder if this racket might be seasonal, since he clearly wants to mate with anything that moves.

(His toys are taking a beating). Camille of Ponsonby.

 

Hi Camille, I know just how you feel. We had a beautiful abandoned Lutino Ring-neck here at the clinic for a while and had to re-home her for the same reasons. She would jealously turn up the volume as soon as she saw us trying to answer the phones! She hit the jackpot with her new home with Naila though, with a special toy house imported for her and tons of other animals to boss around. Rainbow Lorikeets are infamous for their rambunctious nature, for being difficult, bolshie and for their massive voice. They are indeed spring breeders so his attitude could certainly ease off at other times of the year. They are also very keen to pair for life, coming together in huge flocks at times then separating off again. Environmental enrichment with toys was a good move but really I think the best and only solution is getting him a gorgeous girlfriend to take his focus off you the neighbours and certain toys, could be twice the work though, kind regards and best wishes, Dr Alex Melrose. VetCare Grey Lynn. 408 Great North Rd. 09 3613500 , www.vetcare.net.nz , info@vetcare.net.nz .

Hi Alex, bit of a strange one but here we go. The kids and I noticed a lump on the side of one of their rats about 3 or 4 weeks ago, half way up the chest and it seems to be growing really fast. The rat, “Mr Ratty” to them,  is 5 years old and is otherwise totally fine; eating, drinking from his bottle, exploring and running around rapidly as they do.

 

 We understand from our google research it will either be an abscess or a tumor and were wondering what it would involve to treat either of these options. Hoping you can help the family. Peter and the Rat.

 

Hi Peter, it’s great to have a rodent question. I’m always filled with glee when our clients bring their Ratty pets in, perched happily on their shoulders, and the waiting room suddenly clears out.  Nothing like the Pythons coming in to the London clinic though!  

 

Domesticated rats are very prone to cancers, having at least some genetic components in common with rats previously tightly bred for medical testing of human drug therapies.   It seems to be this, kidney failure or pneumonia that usually gets them in their old age and at Five Mr Ratty is certainly getting on. 

 

The best thing to do is bring him in to be examined so we can come up with a plan to remove the lump, if possible. Abscesses on the body are comparatively rare so I’m picking it will be a “growth”.

 

Depending on how well attached it is to tissues below it could be possible to “shell” the mass out very quickly through a small central incision and without great trauma to the rat. We use an acrylic gas anaesthetic chamber to knock these little guys out as safely as possible and use very fine instrument, a magnifying head loop and steady hands. W

 

e would do things pretty cheaply to help out your kids, just starting out on the rewarding path of pet responsibility. See you soon with the family and Mr Ratty, kind regards, Dr Alex Melrose.

Gabbana, my beautiful little Birman kitten has just started scooting along the floor on her backside. She seems a little distressed and startled at the time and suddenly drops to the floor and rubs along our carpet. This is not particularly attractive to dinner guests and it also worries me she may be in some sort of pain.

 

She’s just been spayed so I don’t think she would do it to attract roaming Birman males, and I have got her on Revolution for fleas and worms. What’s going on, is this some sort of strange behaviour?

 

There are two possible explanations for this delightful practice in your kitten. Firstly, this could be caused by tape worm segments. These are sticky rice-like structures which attach themselves to the skin as they are passed out in the animal’s faeces. This can cause redness and irritation in this perineal area.

 

Alternatively all cats and dogs have 2 small glands at their rear end just beneath the tail. These glands have potent skunk-like secretions which animals use to identify each other and their territories. If these glands become blocked they can swell to a point where the animal is uncomfortable and irritated by this feeling. In the worst case scenario the gland will abscess and actually burst out through the surrounding skin (not nice for your beloved pet, or anyone in firing range).

 

The first thing I’d do is worm Gabbana with a good product like Drontal or Felex. Revolution does treat all other types of worms (as well as fleas), but is not effective against Tape worms, so give her a tablet anyway. If this has no effect, a trip to your vet is advisable.

 

We get the fun job of examining her rear and expressing any blocked matter from her glands. Stand back and bring some barrier cream for the smell!

 

The more fibre and roughage she has in her diet the better for preventing this condition. Occasionally we’ll put her on antibiotics if there is some infection present.

Good luck and I hope the dinner guests regain their appetite, regards Alex.

Hi Dr. Melrose.

I have a cat named Ziggy that is 15 years old.  For many weeks now he has been having explosive diarrhoea, some vomiting, weight loss, eating like he is starving, crust in the corners of his eyes and his voice sounds a little hoarse.  I have another cat that has herpes, which has lived with Ziggy for 11 years. 

 

I also have another cat who is 2 years old (Olly) with none of these symptoms.  Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer temporarily, whether it be giving him cheese (for diarrhoea), extra water, different type of food....any kind of home remedy I can try just to see if I can get him better before going to the vet. I know cancer is a possibility, which I hope it is not so bad.  Thanks, Miriam.  

 

Hi Miriam, Ziggy, Olly …….. and everyone else there at the house. While I share your concern about the possibility of something sinister it’s not going to be related to the Herpes.

 

Let’s do the basics first, as we were taught way back at vet school “common things happen commonly”.  First I would worm him with an effective product from your vet e.g. Drontal, making sure it goes down and stays down and that the right sized tablet is used for his weight (easy to under-dose big cats with a 4kg tab).  

 

Next I would narrow his diet right in to address any type of Irritable Bowel Syndromes that aging humans and animals are more prone to developing (these can develop to foods that he has tolerated for a long time!).

 

Try getting a small bag of true hypoallergenic diet like the range from Royal Canin or Hills Z/D (also from the vet) and feeding him separately (easier said than done I know). We should see some improvement within 2 weeks if on the right track, up-to 2 months for full resolution. I definitely agree he needs a total work up as soon as possible.

 

I would be checking hard for Hyper-thyroidism, which if he did have is mainly treatable. Please don’t feed him any cheese; it will go right through him.

Dear Martin and Jay,

It’s great to get an animal question directly from the editor; this of course means you intently follow my advice every month. Tiger’s shakes may just be from very high adrenaline levels at certain times, as is common with many breeds like Jack Russell and Staffordshire Terriers.

 

However, there is also a well recognized congenital condition of Scotties that both Tiger and the infamous, internationally renowned Mr. Scottie may have shared (despite quite different lineage). It is widespread but fortunately does not present any serious health dilemmas. It is commonly called “Scottie Trembles” or “Scottie Cramp”.

 

Affected dogs are normal at rest but can show cramping or shaking when excited or stressed. Knowing first hand the incredibly stress-free life your dogs enjoy I am leaning toward option A, excitement. Common triggering stimuli can be exercise, aggression, courtship or playing.

 

The forelegs stance becomes wider, the lower back can hunch under and the hind legs can sink a little. Some affected dogs exhibit a “goose –stepping” gait and other Scotties temporarily find running a little too difficult at the time. Individual dogs will be affected to largely varying degrees.

 

This is not a seizure; there is no reduction in, or loss of consciousness. Instead it is caused by depletion of Serotonin, a brain neurotransmitter. The signal heading from the Tiger’s brain to his muscles becomes temporarily garbled. Interestingly it is as we pass in and out of sleep mode when serotonin levels alter drastically in our body.

 

Tiger will be going through these neurotransmitter fluctuations combined with sudden excitement at the prospect of heading outdoors early each morning. There is no pain, just shaking or varying loss of co-ordination.

 

If carried in a Scottie, this condition will have been present, though not always detected, since birth. As adults many dogs will cease to exhibit any signs. Highly wired personalities are more likely to continue to show symptoms (not pointing the finger at anyone in particular).

 

The great news is the condition never deteriorates to the point of affecting any of these dogs’s quality of life.

Hi Jim & Jodie, it sounds like Alice is getting a fantastic quality of life with you guys, great stuff. There are a wide range of potential causes for her dandruff, especially if it accompanied by any redness or itching.

 

Firstly it’s unlikely to be skin mites as these are usually accompanied by a lot of self trauma, hair loss and bacterial pimples. We can check for these by running a skin scrape test. Also unlikely is a primary bacterial or fungal infection. Typically this would appear as moist dermatitis, pimples or circular crusts.

 

We can also run skin tests for these. In Alice’s case it sounds more likely that we are dealing with a low grade skin allergy.  The most common categories of allergens are Fleas, Food, Contact or Atopic.

 

Allergies, once diagnosed, are usually present for life and require long term management. A fleabite allergy is most common and in 50% of these cases you will not find fleas on the animal. The little “bloody” parasites spend most of the time in the environment and allergic animals only need a couple of bites and their skin overreacts badly. Alice is on an excellent diet but it is still a slight possibility for her to be reacting to a particular protein (chicken in the case of Eukanuba) or additive.

 

Food allergy lesions are often around the face and perineum and a 6 week dietary trial can be performed with a special diet to confirm this. Contact allergies present with a ventral distribution i.e. lower limbs, paws, abdomen and muzzle. Atopic allergies are also common and environmental allergens can range from pollens to moulds or house dust mites.

 

Dogs typically get dermatitis around the head, feet and legs and rub, lick or scratch themselves. Atopic and contact allergies are often worse during certain seasons (particularly spring to summer). So after this overview where do we start with Alice?

 

The first thing is to put her on Flax Seed Oil, ½ a tablespoon daily for a medium sized dog. This is an excellent immune regulator and assists with production of beneficial oils for the skin surface. I would also use, initially weekly, a good soothing antibacterial shampoo to remove dandruff. Massage this in well and try to leave on her skin for 10 Minuits to work its stuff.

 

Next use a good quality Flea product to rule out this potential irritant, natural products are not suitable for dogs like Alice that show any signs of dermatitis. Above and beyond these basics we can look at a great side-effect free, immune modulator, called Atopica.

 

For dogs with more severe allergic dermatitis we often have to reach for repeated courses of prednisone, antihistamines and antibiotics. Atopica is a great, safe alternative to these, and very effective in some cases.

 

None of these later treatments would be required for Alice’s mild skin problems. Let me know how the Flax Seed Oil works, kind regards, Dr Alex Melrose.

Hi Alex,

Something strange is going on with my dogs back legs. He has been having episodes of running along fine then suddenly yelping and holding up one back leg. He hops along for a minuit then places it back down on the ground and runs around as if nothing has ever happened.

 

The strange thing is it can be in either back leg, and when I’ve examined him carefully afterwards everything looks fine. By this time he’s not showing any pain at all. It happens mainly when he’s tearing around like a maniac at the park chasing balls and playing with other dogs.

 

Although he is a small Bijon Frise he is pretty hardy and I doubt he would just be putting it on. He has just turned 2 years old so it couldn’t be arthritis, could it? What’s prompted me to get your advice is that the problem is becoming more frequent. Can you please offer some suggestions and help little Casper the friendly Bichon?

Steve, Ponsonby.

 

Hi Steve and Casper,

It sounds like you’ve been pretty thorough in checking him over for foreign bodies, obvious wounds or grass allergy dermatitis so I think it’s likely that the problem is something else. It would be possible for Casper to have arthritic joints at such a young age if he had been born with some congenital problems so we can’t rule that out. However, the signs you describe are classical for patella luxation.

 

This is especially common in small breeds of dogs where the shape of the hind limbs tend to be bowed. As Casper is racing around and twisting at the knee he can temporarily pop his knee cap out of its groove in his femur. As you have observed these little guys will often recover quickly afterwards when the patella pops back into place, sometimes with minimal residual pain. E

 

very time this happens it gets a little easier to repeat. The groove that holds the patella in line gradually becomes worn down and the surrounding ligaments get stretched. Casper needs a thorough physical from your vet who can confirm this diagnosis by assessing the ease and extent of luxation of his knee cap. X-Rays can give valuable information about any possible degenerative changes or poor conformation of his knees.

 

If Casper’s problem is worsening he may need surgery to deepen the bony groove and tighten the supporting tissues.

 

Surgical correction provides good return of function and prevents further joint damage, luxation and pain. With the proper veterinary care Casper has a great chance of being able to run around happily for many more years to come. Kind regards, Dr Alex Melrose.

Dear Alex,

I have a retriever called Rusty who is a real pig.  Sometimes when we’re out walking he will even try to eat slug bait out of gardens.  I thought dogs were not supposed to like slug bait?  Is this bad for him?  I have been told by some people this could kill him.  Is that true?

Sarah, Freemans Bay.

  

Dear Sarah,

The short answer is NO. It’s not safe to have Slug Bait anywhere near your dog. The fact is that Rusty being Retriever is therefore born to eat, like Labradors, Dalmations, Schnauzers and other gastronomically challenged breeds.

 

I have several clients with dogs like this that “carry the wolf gene” as far as food goes and it does get them into trouble from time to time. These poisons can be labeled as “dog-safe” and do have repellent to discourage some things from eating them, unfortunately this is far from foolproof.  Slug bait poisons are a real killer. If your dog eats any slug bait you must seek veterinary attention immediately.

 

If you’re at home you can try and induce vomiting yourself by pouring a mixture of very salty water from a plastic bottle down the dog’s throat, a two litre soft drink container is ideal. In saying this vomiting should not be induced for ant bait or other caustic poisons. 

 

Veterinary treatment is essential in all of these circumstances. Signs your dog may have ingested slug bait poison could include tremors, in-coordination, excessive salivation and hyper ventilation. 

 

Veterinary treatment may include administering charcoal, fluids, sedatives and oxygen.  The chance of a full recovery all depends on how quickly you respond in this kind of situation

Hi Martin and Jay,

Amazingly when I spun the barrel full of mail for this month yours was the letter that popped out, totally randomly of course. So let’s get on to the intricate workings of Scottie dogs.

 

If Tiger was simply favouring that leg when walking on grass I’d think it likely he had some pododermatitis. That is inflamed and possibly infected skin in between his toes and pads. It is common and as the grass blades push upwards into these areas often dogs with this condition get worse on this kind of surface. However, I think the “knuckling over” you describe is a little different.

 

It is possible that there is some residual damage to this paw from past trauma. If Tiggy Boo has scar tissue present or slight osteoarthritis it may prevent him from flexing that paw as easily, fully or quickly as he would normally. He may change his gait on uneven surfaces and may try lifting his paw higher; exposing the variation.

 

Another consideration is he may have gotten an unusual response from you guys one day when at the park and could be repeating the paw lift to garner even more attention than is already understandably lavished on him. I still think the shaking of the same paw means previous lasting trauma is number one on the list and he may feel a little stiffness in that joint at times.

 

A thorough exam with full manipulation of the joints in all directions, and a comparison of range of motion, thickness and degree of resistance to the other limb would be invaluable.

 

Radiographs of both front paws and carpals would give tell us about any bony joint deterioration, bone chips, or unusual joint spacing. Sounds like I’ll have the pleasure of your company in at VetCare again shortly so we can get to the bottom of this.

Hi Alex,

I have 3 cats in our household. Two are 4 year olds who arrived in May last year. Since their arrival the female of this pair has been very aggressive to our older female cat. She has frequently urinated through the house and attacked the older cat making her life miserable. Last June I began using a Feliway diffuser which gave good results. It is now not as affective and the young cat is again becoming aggressive. Do you have any advice?

 

 

Hi, the Feliway is an excellent pheromonal spray and will improve cat misbehaviour in 95% of cases. When the initial triggers of the bad behaviour haven’t been removed it’s often not enough on its own. Keep using it, focus in spots where the aggressor spends the most time.

 

I would also add a naturopathic calming product like Sedapet or Biopet to the cat’s water daily. Retraining options follow two paths. Firstly you could make the new, aggressive dominant cat feel more secure in her position at the top.

 

Try separating the older cat’s bed, food and water bowls to another area of the house. Ensure the new female gets tons of attention whenever the older cat is around and that it receives unlimited, preferred food on demand to reduce competition.

 

The flipside to this would be to try to reduce dominance in the cat. This is difficult. Cut her nails. A water-pistol can be employed every time she shows any aggression and a course of Clomicalm tablets will often assist in breaking undesirable behavioural patterns.

 

Time-out can work with some individual cats; usually those who value human contact the most. Like any retraining it must be immediate and consistent. This unhappy dynamic is very common in households with three or more cats and re-homing, despite understandable reluctance, can sometimes be the only option

Dear Cindy and Samantha,

First let’s deal with the possibility of Samantha being on heat. Naturally, in a spayed cat this is very rare. Occasionally cats can have tiny pieces of an ovary accidentally left behind during their ovariohysterectomy.

 

Even less common are recorded instances of cats with ectopic ovarian tissue, tags of ovary and its associated eggs located away from their normal position at the end of the uterine horn. Both of these situations are highly unlikely and Samantha is more likely to just be displaying excited or anxious behaviour.

 

As you have correctly implied it is unusual for cats, especially for females, to spray after they have been neutered. However, approximately 5% of them will still do it at certain times. They are spraying small volumes of urine, primarily to mark their territory, usually against vertical surfaces or edges.

 

Anxiety is usually the trigger for cats to start to spray. Samantha is probably attempting to ward other cats away from her territory and to reassure herself. The pheremones carried in her urine have a powerful calming effect on her. Essentially she is trying to tell herself that everything is o.k.

 

Of course in her mind it may not be and to stop any cat spraying we need to identify the stressor, such as a neighbouring cat coming in through a cat door. Then we can take steps like getting a magnetic cat door installed to allow only Samantha to pass in and out. Veterinary pheremonal sprays and plug in diffusers are helpful in treating these problems.

 

Occasionally we will even use anti anxiety tablets to temporarily reduce stress levels and help break bad habits.

Let’s work on reducing Samantha’s stress levels, Dr Alex Melrose.

It sounds to me like Dougal is a really lucky dog and is superbly well cared for. The normal frequency of his “number twos” or of any other animals relates heavily to the quality of his diet.

 

Eukanuba is an excellent diet and of as high a quality as you can get. It has high bioavailability, meaning the individual components of the food can be readily absorbed by Dougals’ digestive tract, supplying his active little body with what it needs but also leaving little waste for him to be excreted.

 

As well as this Eukanuba, and some other top quality dry foods have significant amount of dietary fibre, largely beet pulp which aids normal contractions of the intestine and keeps him “regular”. The 40 Minuit walk daily is great, every dog should get at least this much exercise off their own section daily. I

 

t’s so important for both physical and mental stimulus regardless of how big their back yard may be. The problem signs to watch for with any dog’s droppings are the presence of mucus or blood, any straining or pain, and dramatic changes in firmness or colour.

 

Make sure you are worming Dougal with a quality product such as Drontal or Canex that kills all 4 families of intestinal parasites and that this is being done every 3 months.

 

In the absence of any of these problems I think it sounds like Dougal is perfectly healthy and is probably just “going 2 to 6 times” every morning because he is a bouncy terrier and is too busy charging around all over the place to stop and pass everything at once.

Hi Alex. We have an 11 month old kitten – Chappie, who looks a lot like your rescue cat Whitefoot. This is Chappie's story. He was born around this time last year, we found him in the rain.

 

Chappie weighed only 240g, and was dying. We gave him kitten milk formula and just like Whitefoot Chappie never gave up! We put him in a warm cat bed and with A LOT of TLC Chappie is one happy cat … despite having one eye blind. We recently decided to adopt another stray.

 

We got Patrick from where he lived at a cat foster home with 7 other kittens. He is about 6 months old and very friendly. Our problem is that now Chappie doesn't want to sleep inside the house or even come in to eat. At night we have to get him, lock him in our bedroom and put his food next to his sleeping basket, kind of like room service.

 

We let Patrick outside at night and mornings and the two play and chase each other happily on the grass. How can we get Chappie to accept him inside as well? Kind Regards, Whitefoot fan.

 

Hi, wow what a great story. I guess in hindsight Chappie feels his space has been invaded. It's a great start that they get on outside where he feels less cornered. His reduced eye sight would predispose him to some lack of confidence.

 

I think it’s a similar occurrence to many dogs being much more friendly to other dogs when off-lead, but then getting their heckles up when they are on-lead, feeling boxed in.

 

Because he hasn’t mellowed by himself after a couple of weeks I would shut Chappie inside with Patrick and a separate litter tray, non-stop for 1-2 weeks. With no inter-cat aggression present I think this is a safe option, basically forcibly pushing Chappie to be constantly reinforced that contrary to his fears, he’s not in any danger when in a confined space.

 

Anti-anxiety products like Feliway and Clomicalm would help smooth this process.

Dear Alex

I have an eight year old Bearded Collie, Max. I have recently discovered that he loves to watch dog shows and vet programmes on television! I have often wondered how dogs see, and how they take in information. What is he responding to? Does he see the same image as us humans? I’m curious and would love to know more.

Alan Chambers of Freeman’s Bay.

 

Dear Alan,

Contrary to popular belief Max is in fact taking in a lot of visual information while he watches your T.V. He is probably also responding to the noises of the animals.

 

Dog’s like Max can see some colour. They see colours in the blue spectrum pretty well but are red-green colour blind having only 2 types of cone cells at the back of their eye, compared with humans who possess three types of cone, and at 10 times the density.

 

Their ability to see fine detail is estimated to be about 1/6^th that of ours, lacking a fovea which is an area of the retina consisting of 100% cones that all people have. This gives them acuity of about 20/75 vision, meaning they will see an object from 20 metres away as well as a human standing 75 metres away.

 

They are much more adept at detecting movement and focus well on the edges and outlines of the animals they’re watching on the screen which is important considering so much of dog social interaction relies on postural movements.

 

Certain breeds such as Labradors have better eyesight than others. Instead of a fovea all dogs have a tapetum, which is a reflective area of the eye which boosts the brightness of light hitting the retina. They also have more rods at the rear of their eye than we do and these two features allow much better night vision.

 

They can’t judge distances as well as us, due to a more lateral position of their eyes but they have better peripheral vision.

 

Cats see a little more range of colour in the blue, green and yellow spectrums when compared with Max, but see very little reds. They have better depth judgment in the nearsighted range, see similar definition as humans and have even better night vision than their canine friends, aided by their elliptical, faster adjusting pupil.

 

Cats process visual information much faster than the rest of us and to their eyes older 50 Hz television sets will usually appear to be flickering. They would much prefer to watch a set with a 100 Hz picture frame rate.

 

I guess to help Max enjoy his viewing you should turn the brightness right down and pick out shows with lots of fast moving action scenes where everyone is wearing blue or stripes. I’m thinking a prison show, the smurfs or some underwater 007 scenes would be the go.

 

Kind regards, Dr Alex Melrose.

Dear Sonia, I trust your wounds are healing well. Obviously Barney shouldn’t be nipping you like that, but if he has significant pain in his mouth then dogs can understandably behave out of character.

 

Normally I would encourage all pet owners to regularly examine their pet’s mouth so you were trying to do the right thing, starting this daily when they are young puppies is smart move. There are a few tell – tale signs of dental disease you can spot.

 

Brown concretions of tartar can line the teeth especially on the back molars so make sure you pull the gums back to check these rear teeth. Inflamed, red, swollen gums may be visible and the gum-line can extend down to hide cavities. These may bleed when touched and animals will jerk their head back or their lower jaw may shudder.

 

Teeth may be visibly loose or have fractured tips or slabs missing of the side, this is typically seen in dogs chewing stones. Some teeth can be ground down very flat to expose a central dark pulp cavity, again common in chewers and geriatrics. Often the mouth smells terrible, especially if food or bits of grass, stick or bone are jammed between teeth.

 

Dental disease can really drag an animal’s health down. In Barney’s case it could be causing significant pain, restricting his ability to eat, altering his demeanor and showering his internal organs with bacteria carried along in his blood stream. I think you should definitely bring Barney in to see us.

 

Don’t risk getting bitten again, we can get safely examine his mouth with a mix of sedatives and experience, and then let you know what treatment he requires. He may need tooth extractions and to have remaining teeth de-scaled and polished with our state of the art dental machine.

 

Just like when you’re at the dentist, only he won’t feel a thing while he is having a nice peaceful dream about fields of sausages. When he returns home he is likely to need pain killers and antibiotic treatment and will later benefit from special teeth cleaning biscuits, chews and tooth brushing once weekly when he is feeling better.

 

Let’s get stuck into Barneys mouth and like many other owners have happily reported back to us, you will probably notice a subtle but clear improvement in his quality of life.

This fantastic weather we’ve all been enjoying has also got our pets outside being super active and having their own set of great adventures. Not surprisingly the incidence of mishaps rises correspondingly. One summer culprit that can be found lurking in some of our fresh and brackish water areas is a lethal threat to our pets, to livestock and to humans.  

 

Whilst we would like to think of our waterways as pristine, clear and un-spoilt, chemical and waste runoff can make this far from the truth. Blue-green algae hang at the edges and contain cyanobacteria, primitive photosynthetic organisms, some of which can produce cyanotoxins. These toxins can attack the body’s neurological, liver and skin organ systems.

 

Each type of bacteria produces distinct toxins and thereby attacking different systems. In New Zealand this will most commonly be a neurological toxin. These natural chemicals bind to ACH receptors in an animal and can kill within Minuits, leaving very little trace. Specialised laboratory tests on stomach contents can be used to confirm this cause of sudden death if the post mortem samples are sent with a specific request. Some of the hot spots for cyanobacterial toxicosis include the Waikato and Bay of Plenty river and lake systems.

 

With many people unaware of the presence of this toxin, it is highly likely that a significant number of undiagnosed sudden deaths in these areas could have been caused by this organism. Local councils play an important role in reporting the presence of toxin producing blue-green algae in their individual areas, many having large risk signs displayed.

 

Unfortunate dogs are usually affected by drinking algae laden water in eddies and pools at the rivers edge. Contrary to popular belief the water does not need to be sitting still. Affected dogs will initially present confused and seeking attention or reassurance.

 

Respiration and heart rates rise and the white third eyelids can slide half way across in-front of the eyes. Signs progress to stumbling, in-coordination and then convulsions. With severe cases breathing will eventually become very shallow, tongues and gums blue from asphyxia and the heart will arrest.

 

This tragedy can all unfold in as little as 30 Minuits. Please be aware of this potential cause of poisoning. Don’t allow your canine friends to drink from fringing water with algae obviously present, direct them instead to some fast flowing, clear freshwater.

 

If you suspect possible poisoning or observe any of the signs I have discussed please rush to the closest vet to get potentially life saving assistance. Kind regards, Dr Alex Melrose.

Dear Dr Alex,

I need your help so much. A friend has moved to Europe to live and she gave me her 12 year old King Charles spaniel to keep. My first problem is that she won’t come when you call her. When I take her for a walk I can’t let her off the lead as she wanders off and ignores being called back.

 

My second problem is that if it’s fine she goes in and out her dog-door to the toilet with no problems. If it has been raining she would rather do her business somewhere inside which is most annoying. I am very house proud and with winter coming I need your help badly. What can I do? Thanking you, Cindy, Freeman’s Bay.

 

Dear Cindy,

It’s fantastic that you have provided a loving home for this gentle little breed of Spaniel. One of the most common difficulties for any pet owner taking in an adult dog is the inheritance of pre-existing behavioural difficulties.

 

“Old” dogs can be taught new tricks but require a lot more commitment to get results than in a puppy. Central to retraining is the establishment of what are the particular rewards that motivate each animal. For some it is attention from favorite owners, for most King Charles it clearly is food.

 

I can attest to this having once had a 32kg Cavalier brought in to me, an atrocious scenario considering their target weights are around 10kg. He couldn’t even walk halfway to the letter box until we started a regular program of exercise and restricted diet. For training purposes a strong food motivation is a blessing. Let’s tackle the first problem of not returning back to you when called.

 

Get hold of some dried liver treats and keep a plastic bag of those in you pocket at all times. Don’t put them through the wash! Initially I would start the training at home. Call her to you in a super happy clear tone and then when she comes to you immediately give her a small piece of treat and make a big fuss. As she improves her returning, because you have upped the stakes for her to do so, you can gradually increase the distance between you and gradually apply the same training to her when you are off your section. Initially make sure you reward her every single time you call her.

 

After several weeks or months of training you will be able to reduce the frequency of the rewards. Also make sure not to use the same command prior to confining her, or putting her to bed. If you are going to do that then just go and grab her. You must not associate the call command with any negative experience, similarly if she has a relapse don’t tell her off when she finally comes back, just start again.

 

We can apply similar knowledge to your second problem. Every time she has eaten or drunk, first and last thing in the day, and whenever she gives you any signals like circling or vocalizing, physically pick her up and take her outside to do her business.

 

Stay out there with her. Choose one particular spot, and give her a single word command if you wish (“widdles” seems to be popular). Reward her immediately with a treat when she has been. Do this very time, even when it’s dry. Raising the stakes like this will get her over her mild discomfort of walking on the damp ground.

 

 If there is one particular room or area of the home where she has been going you should try to shut off or block access to this and make sure you have cleaned and neutralized the smell thoroughly. All the best with her and please let me know how you go.

Hi Martin,

I think the first thing that is important to realize is that the vast number of animals with small numbers of intestinal worms will not show you any external signs. This is a very strong reason to regularly worm all cats and dogs regardless of their apparent great health.

 

There are four common species of gastrointestinal worms that Barney can contract, one other which can cause problems for puppies, and three species for cats. Any pets can be infected from their mother when young and then from contact fleas, lice, grass, birds and mice.

 

When you do see signs of a worm burden they can be varied and non specific. Bloating of the abdomen, extra gas in the bowels and a dull, dry coat are the most common. Less frequently vomiting and diarrhea, lethargy and abdominal pain can be seen, especially in puppies and kittens who are more vulnerable, having less effective immune defences and less body reserves.

 

Occasionally an animal with Tapeworm will rub its rear end against the ground vigorously in an attempt to dislodge Tapeworm segments that attach themselves to the peri-anal area. As a pet owner you can sometimes see these segments as small rice like grains attached to the skin in this area.

 

The other of the intestinal worm species which is readily visible to the naked eye is a Roundworm which is like a very thin version of an earthworm and is passed in the pets faeces. Hookworms and Whipworms are not usually noticeable. Your vet can perform a range of faecal lab tests to identify these parasites in cases where they may be dragging down the health of an animal.

 

The second important reason to worm all pets regularly is the risk of human infection. Hook worm, Tapeworm and Strongyloid worms are all a health risks to humans. These can be transferred by inadvertent faecal-oral transmission (touching your mouth with your hands after playing with Barney) or some can even penetrate through your skin. In healthy adults the immune system often prevents infection but young children and immune compromised people are at risk.

 

In the worst cases the worm larvae can migrate through body organs doing huge damage and even causing blindness. I hope this makes it clear why all pets should be wormed every three months, an adequate period of time to cover the minimum of 8 weeks it takes for one of these parasite challenges to become active.